NEW YORK — Designer Carlos Miele will open a 2,200-square-foot, two-level space at 380 Rue Saint-Honoré in Paris in January or February, as part of an international push that includes units in London and Milan later next year, to be followed by stores in Las Vegas and Bal Harbor, Fla.
Miele in November will also launch a 10,000-square-foot store in his hometown of São Paulo in a new upscale mall called Cidade Jardin.
Miele has been putting the finishing touches on a contemporary line for spring called Miele by Carlos Miele. The line will be wholesaled in 21 countries including the U.S., where Saks Fifth Avenue will carry it in 10 doors. Miele said he’ll convert his store in São Paulo’s Jardins district to a Miele by Carlos Miele unit in the fall. A store for the secondary line will open in the Leblon section of Rio de Janeiro in November.
“In the future, I want to open additional stores for the secondary line,” he said, adding that the collection should do $30 million in sales in its first year.
Miele said he’s been able to finance his expansion without the help of outside investors and he’d like to keep it that way for the time being. “My stores have become profitable,” he said Tuesday over espresso at Pastis, around the corner from his 14th Street store here. “Each time I open a new store, I get a loan. In the future, I may want to have a partner, but right now, I want to build everything my way.”
The Paris location, near the corner of Rue Cambon, is in between John Galliano’s boutique and Roberto Cavalli’s latest shop. It will be designed by the Asymptote, the New York-based architecture firm, which created Miele’s flagship on 14th Street.
Miele said he returned to Asymptote because the New York store “has become an architectural reference.” It has won design awards and been featured in several publications. An image of the store graces the cover of “Absolutely Fabulous: Architecture and Fashion” (Prestel Publishing).
“It’s funny because I spent so little on the store,” Miele said “It cost less than $1 million. We were very creative. It was the only way to do it.”
Miele said the Paris store will be different from the New York flagship, which has curvaceous, undulating fixtures inspired by the human form and alcoves with seating and video monitors. In Paris, the unit will combine high-tech materials with Baroque effects. Folds along the walls will be covered with pieces of mirror and there will be circular mirrors on the floors. Lighting on the ceiling will look like one of the laser-cut fabrics that figure in Miele’s fashions.
“The Paris store is very French,” Miele said. “The store is about excess. The design of each store will relate to the locale. The new São Paulo store will use local wood and handcrafted materials.”
Miele’s secondary line also will feature the handcrafted details for which he is famous, such as embroidery and crochet. The average price point will be $350 for a jacket or dress, compared with $2,500 in his signature collection. “It’s going to be younger and more casual with a lot of jeans,” he said. “I’m going to work with 100 percent silks and jerseys. We’re going to offer a very special product.”