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From resort and cruise to pre-spring, the season is full of eclectic signs. Nicolas Ghesquière presented a graphic pre-spring collection with rock ‘n’ roll undertones for Balenciaga. Sleek silhouettes were key, but the designer also played with various combinations, such as a sweeping Forties-style chiffon robe paired with skinny copper pants. Meanwhile, temperatures were soaring at Ungaro, where Peter Dundas turned his Colonial-military inspiration ultrasexy.

Typically, Alberta Ferretti leans toward the pretty with charming pintucked dresses and sweet decorated coats. And Moschino’s creative director, Rossella Jardini, also went gentle with ballerina skirts, prim blouses and cropped pants.

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