PARIS — It’s all for one at Mugler — one name and one logo, that is, for its fragrance and fashion businesses.
This story first appeared in the March 7, 2016 issue of WWD. Subscribe Today.
Beginning with the launch of its newest women’s scent Angel Muse in mid-March, all fragrance products will fall under the Mugler banner, in sync with the fashion branding introduced a decade ago.
“We want to protect the [label] as an institutional brand, as a brand for the future,” Sandrine Groslier, president of Clarins Fragrance Group and Mugler Mode, told WWD. “It was really the moment after 25 years on the market — to become a clearly international brand that’s easy to read everywhere in the world and also to make people understand that the [label] has changed.”
David Koma is now behind the fashion, while the founder conceived the new logo and is still very much involved in perfume development.
The logo is “his pure creation,” explained Groslier, who noted Mugler sat down with a pencil and paper to sketch the brand name by hand in capital letters that are meant to transmit energy, audacity and modernity while still staying true to the brand’s DNA — albeit maybe with a less aggressive bent. The letters M, G and R specifically appear to be man-made, with slightly asymmetric touches.
“You can find the dissonance that Mr. Mugler likes to work [with],” said Groslier.
The executive, who took the reins of the brand in 2013, said the goal is to broaden its appeal.
“We need to open the vision we have of the Mugler brand,” she said. “We want to open to new people, to new countries. We clearly want to make the brand bigger.”
The development echoes moves at other European heritage labels — consider Dior, Maison Margiela and Saint Laurent, for example — which have truncated the founder’s name in a quest for better branding.
“We are very proud to take a new historical step,” said Virginie Courtin-Clarins, director of development, marketing and communications at Mugler Fashion.
The Thierry Mugler fragrance logo has gone through numerous iterations over the years. It has always been the designer’s signature, but in 2004 became more streamlined. Four years later, a logo exclusively destined for travel retail came out with a computer-generated bent and a star between the names Thierry and Mugler.
Fashion and fragrance rebranding happens at a different pace.
“Rebranding a fragrance brand takes more time than a fashion brand,” explained Courtin-Clarins. “On the fashion side we have a new collection every three months, so we have the ability to reinvent ourselves more often and for the moment we can still handle the volume of our production easily, and in a faster system. On the fragrance side, we take years to launch a new product, so every move you make has to be more carefully thought-out.”
All packaging must be reworked, for instance, so that entails millions of products.
Angel Muse, part of the blockbuster Angel franchise, has an advertising campaign fronted by Georgia May Jagger. Its juice is a woody gourmand.
“We have reinvented the [gourmand] family,” said Groslier. “But we’re keeping the spirit of Angel. This a very important step for us — this project will be the first to project this new vision. It is to project the brand and to project Angel into the coming decade.”