PARIS — With fall trends pointing in just about every direction, retailers attending Tranoï, Capsule and Woman here from March 4 to 7 had largely increased their midmarket spend.“We discovered many new young designers and today we’re adding more than five new brands per week,” said Arbia Smiti, founder and chief executive officer of online platform Carnet de Mode. “We’re back to simple and clean lines, prints with geometric structure and wavelike lines or florals and vintage imagery, a mix of materials, leather with suede and denim or nylon, and an Eighties pop gamers style; logo prints, pop colors, humor motifs.” New discoveries among a greater on-year spend for Smiti included Italian label Elisa Biroli and Maiami knitwear at Capsule.“We found a lot of brands at Woman,” said Cécilia Steiner, buyer for Stockholm’s Nitty Gritty concept store. “Like the runway, it’s very diverse, there’s every possible taste; we’re not driven by trends, more style,” she said naming “big, chunky hand knitted pieces” by Australian brand I Love Mr. Mittens and Fay Andrada's hand-cut metal jewelry as standouts. “It really managed to shine through in my world. Very interesting shapes," she said.Lauding the color palette of a more masculine dark green, bordeaux mixed with colors like pink and yellow, Uwe Maier, owner of Bungalow in Stuttgart, was less sold on the season’s mid-shin hemline. “I am not sure about the skirt length,” he said.Showing its first fall collection at Woman, Italian-Korean label Neul picked up some big new accounts for its storyline taking its stylish but wacky city girl on a farm visit. Think oversize cropped pants in mud brown, a denim skirt, all accessorized with a brooch featuring anything from a carrot to an eggplant. Seeking European department store accounts for its riot of yarn-dyed woven delights, Ace & Jig did brisk business with such items as a reversible capella coat in yellow with a patchwork lapel of shearling in collaboration with U.K.-based designer Milena Silvano.Retailers were upbeat about the diversity of trends. “Now fashion is changing, going back to the Seventies, we’re looking for new designers, people have got bored with the old designers, they always want something new, fresh and affordable,” said Iona Abdou, owner of Royal Fashion in Cairo. Shopping for just a few pieces from the winter collections to suit Egypt’s temperate climate, she eyed a multicolored fur coat from Giorgio Brato at Tranoï: “It’s a passe-partout, from the morning to the evening, you can wear it with anything.”“There’s two different directions; the dark, strong, Goth style — how designers are dressing — and then the organic, healthy direction,” said Tera Feng, fashion buyer for Hong Kong Kuan Concept Fashion Co. Feng named Beira, a comfort-led genderless sportswear collection and the minimalistic organic line by Bleu de Cocagne as standouts. Reviving a hand-dyeing technique using woad leaves, each Bleu de Cocagne design is dipped in woad baths until the right shade is reached, a technique for which the artisans have been awarded the label Entreprise du Patrimoine Vivant, or Living Heritage Label.A growing streetwear-fashion storyline was welcomed by Assya Khalidi, owner of Concrete concept store and women’s sneaker store No Boys Allowed in The Hague, as she held up a bejeweled sneaker by Esseutesse. “I wouldn’t wear them but it’s different. Our customers are between 20 and 80 and most of the women who buy sneakers are about 50 years old, I think she’ll buy this.” Browsing Tranoï, Khalidi said her spend was up since “everything is more expensive than it used to be. People are buying more expensive stuff you can use for a long time.”While quiet was the word in the aisles, the number of planned store openings suggested confidence in the bricks-and-mortar multibrand: Lia Coehlo shopped for Dual Investments’ fall opening of Le 66 in Dubai, Motohiko Anzai, buyer for Japan’s Antelope store was shopping the oversize trend with a 200% hike in budget for a new shops-in-shop concept in an undisclosed department store. “People are ready to do business, and there are some great products” said Kim Patterson, a fashion veteran opening a high-end multibrand boutique in Aix-en-Provence this year. Patterson named Wonderology, a trompe l’oeil Swiss jewelry collection using plexiglas and twill silk scarves by Aquade among her top picks at Tranoï’s Cité de la Mode.Lauding the clean lines of made in Spain bags at Steve Mono, for “incredible leathers, classic with edge,” Elizabeth Jeffer, founder of luxury bag e-tailer Roztayger said she was raising her budget a cautiously optimistic 30 percent. “There’s so much volatility and it’s an election year.”Others were less positive. “We’re looking for something different. We’re not finding it. It’s either the same brands, or different brands, same fabrics, same designs,” said Rebecca Schneider, owner of outlet store Mouton à Cinq Pattes in Paris. “I’m seeing a lot of very simple silhouettes, a lot of the same ones,” agreed Yurika Saito, shopping for a Tokyo multibrand store set to open later this year. “I’m looking for strong concepts that stand out in design to make it contemporary.”With admission to its faire free of charge if you pre-registered online, Tranoï grew visitors 3 percent, showing some 600 women's wear labels across three locations. Capsule showed more than 90 labels and Woman some 80 collections.
Exclusive: @longchamp is planning to stage its first official runway show at New York Fashion Week this fall. The French leather goods firm has expanded into ready-to-wear as part of its repositioning as a lifestyle brand. The show, scheduled for September 8, will also cap the brand’s 70th anniversary celebration. Get all the details on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @dominiquemaitre)
The Duke and Duchess of Sussex undertook their first overseas engagement as a married couple in Dublin. The trip included multiple events and outfits changes, including this black dress by @emiliawickstead that Meghan Markle wore for a party at the British Ambassador’s home. #wwdfashion #royals
At 20 years old – and with an estimated net worth of $900 million - @kyliejenner is the youngest person to ever make @forbes’ annual list of America’s Richest #SelfMadeWomen. “It’s incredible to be recognized for something I’m so passionate about, and I’m really grateful for that. I’ve always loved makeup and worked really hard to bring the first lip kit to the market,” said Jenner on founding @kyliecosmetics. See who else is on the list on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdbeauty (📷: @rainerhosch)
“The collection is inspired by Tulum and the Mayan Riviera – its laid-back luxury, life of cabanas, untouched coastline, natural habitats, exotic cocktails and jungle parties with renowned DJs,” said Matteo Maniatty, creative director and cofounder of @descendantofthieves, on the brand’s inspiration for its latest collection. See more designer sketches and inspirations on WWD.com. #wwdfashion #nyfwmens #nyfw
@riccardotisci17 is releasing a limited-edition capsule collection as part of his anticipated runway debut for @burberry in September. Delivered in a series of instant drops, this is the second Burberry capsule collection announced since Friday, when Tisci broke the news on his collaboration with @viviennewestwood. Get all the details on WWD.com. #wwdfashion #wwdnews
“It’s like a Cinderella story. You get a little fake, you get a little real, you put it together and voilà,” said legendary rapper Slick Rick, who helped pioneer the merge of luxury and streetwear. WWD’s @ariahughes spoke to @therulernyc about his jewelry collection, his collaboration with @bally and how the industry has evolved – link in bio. (📷: @kristaschlueter)
@ragandbone and @eminem are teaming up on a special capsule collection of streetwear pieces. Sold at a one-day pop-up in London’s Soho on Friday, the collection features three different T-shirt designs and a hoodie. The capsule is set to kick off the rest of Eminem’s shows in his European Revival Tour, which ends on Sunday. Get all the details on WWD.com. #wwdfashion