Much like the underpinnings of a couture dress, a designer’s creative process can be just as beautiful and intriguing as the final product.
Ahead of the first day of New York Fashion Week on Friday, designers gave WWD exclusive access into the making of their garments — a first look before first looks.
“Fittings on the body is always one of my favorite parts of the process,” said Peter Do, whose second fashion week showcase will take place at the Genesis House.
Utilitarianism was on the mind of Australian designer Dion Lee, who toyed with “architectural motifs, scaffolding the body and construction workwear” for his fall collection. Gabriela Hearst examined ideas of fragmentation as well, albeit philosophically, proclaiming her Feb. 15 show a “process of self-discovery.”
Formerly a designer of interiors, Silvia Tcherassi honed in on textile innovation by “applying rich patterns usually reserved for thicker materials, such as wool, and placing them over softer, lighter fabrics.” Her collage features a delicious color palette of eggplant, scarlet and shades of pink.
In fashion, newness is next to godliness, but sometimes the only way to push the conversation forward is to look back. Adeam founder Hanako Maeda will celebrate her brand’s 10th anniversary with a digital presentation “that merges childhood memories and ideas from the brand’s first NYFW collection,” she said.
Daniella Kallmeyer turned to icons of the 1970s for her fall collection, imagining if “Mahogany’s Diana Ross and Shampoo’s Julie Christie hosted an intimate dinner party.”
Meanwhile, Badgley Mischka is expected to reconstruct “post-war couture through a 1980s lens.” If the brand’s sketch of a sheath gown dotted with rosettes is any indication, the collection will be in no short supply of opulence.
Here, WWD presents the final installment of a three-part series looking at the inspirations behind the New York fall 2022 collections.