One-year-old unisex streetwear label Collectif Aucun comes shrouded in an air of mystery. And that’s exactly the point. Founded by a quartet of young designers of different nationalities aged between 21 and 24, the idea is to keep the focus on the clothes and not the people behind them, in the vein of Martin Margiela or, more recently, Vetements in its early incarnation. Whether dealing with a buyer or client, all e-mails are signed Collectif Aucun.
But they’re willing to pick up the phone. “We just wanted to go for it,” said a chatty albeit anonymous male voice on the other end, explaining the concept. The idea, he added, was to prove that, even without much experience — two of the designers did stints at Andrea Crews and Cédric Charlier; one interned at Dior and the other works in the trends department of Galeries Lafayette, according to said voice — it is possible to create something that can get the attention of retailers like Colette. Which is what happened. The influential store picked up the label’s first collection, presented in January and comprised of five merino wool sweaters in jacquard motifs depicting items of daily life (think metro tickets, plastic water bottles and plugs), bagging the exclusive for France.
This season, the Paris-based label will present its first full women’s-oriented collection (their direction is unisex, but here they’ve thrown in a few more feminine pieces), inspired by adolescence and photographer Rania Matar’s shots of teenagers’ bedrooms. Items range from denim screen-printed with bedroom posters to limited-edition jackets in simple cuts but unusual Japanese fabrics handcrafted in one of the designer’s apartments. The young collective’s members will also reveal a little bit more of themselves, with hand-scrawled questionnaires sharing details like their first kiss embroidered onto garments.
Collectif Aucun will present from Sept. 30 to Oct. 6 at the Other/Wise showroom.