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WWD Collections issue 04/14/2014

Mary Poppins would feel right at home.

This story first appeared in the April 14, 2014 issue of WWD. Subscribe Today.

London designers veered away from flashing the flesh this season, with covered-up creations dominating the city’s runways.

Jonathan Anderson of J.W. Anderson championed the idea with midlength skirts and polo-neck tops fashioned from heavy wide-wale corduroy, worn with stiff bustiers. Even Anderson’s beauty muse tapped into the blue-stocking mood, with his models’ barely-there makeup and unkempt hair inspired by Virginia Woolf.

Christopher Kane’s models also walked a modest line, wearing oversize sweatshirts paired with tailored pants, while high-necked, Victorian-style knit tops were worn with calf-skimming lamé skirts.

The sense of propriety even found its way onto Tom Ford’s runway, a designer best known his va-va-va-voom creations. Ford’s fall collection was replete with such sleek, sober looks as a black velvet, high-necked shift and a full-length cashmere gown with a built-in poncho, worn by Stella Tennant.

Reasoned Ford: “When you go very far one way, you get in a mood to swing back the other way.”

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