The fashion calendar looks a bit leaner headed into fall, but a dearth of activations from European houses compared to last season frees up breathing room for fresh talent and some American tent poles, to hold the attention of buyers and press.
For starters, WWD’s one-to-watch Kate Barton will push her “focus on multidimensional shape through textile engineering,” evidenced by the cobalt blue halter dress she’s whipped up without the use of darts or seams. It’s a slick look, but with romantic folds that will surely differentiate it from the more brutalist lines of another newcomer, Nayon Kim.
Also on the schedule, Bach Mai — who is quickly becoming a favorite for high-profile event dressing — is plunging his midcentury swans into the depths of the ocean, where Elizabeth Hilfiger has uncovered the nautical inspiration behind her Foo and Foo show at the Paradise Club in midtown.
Alongside Christian Siriano and Sergio Hudson, fall 2023 will see the return of some NYFW veterans as well.
After expatriating to Paris, Thom Browne and Heron Preston are coming home. The former is reveling in words of French writer Antoine de Saint-Exupéry, while the latter cobbles together found objects, painting the town his signature orange on Feb. 11.
That same day, Anna Sui, who opted for a digital presentation last spring, will be back to her old shenanigans with a live runway show, taking everyone down to Chelsea’s now-defunct Peppermint Lounge to dance the twist.
No doubt Robert Rodriguez’s discotheque of choice is Studio 54. The Halston alum is gearing up to debut his new evening line, Koltson, on Feb. 14, and if the sketch he’s provided is anything to go off of, the collection will include enough swirling chiffon to delight even Mr. Frowick himself.