PARIS — Among the week’s highlights on the peripheraries of the runways, Augustin Dol-Maillot, a rising talent from the Chanel studios, will present his sophomore collection for Barrie, the Scottish cashmere specialist acquired by the house in 2012.
The young designer, who grew up in Nice in the South of France before moving to Paris in his teens, arrived at Chanel via an internship in the creative studio at age 16. (His father, Jean-Christophe Maillot, director and choreographer of Les Ballets de Monte Carlo since 1993, collaborated with the late Karl Lagerfeld 20 years ago on a production in Monaco, and the designer was a close family friend.)
Dol-Maillot, who whilst figuring out his career switched course to study graphic design, working under Neville Brody for a few years, went on to launch a high-end streetwear label that he eventually put on hold, returning to Chanel four years ago where he works mainly on sportswear accessories.
His aim for Barrie, he said, is to inject a youthful kick into the house, mixing tradition and modernity, including a specially developed new palette shot with neons. Barrie is based in Hawick in the Scottish Borders region, a heartland of cashmere and merino wool manufacturing since the late 18th century. But for Dol-Maillot, as a French designer creating for a Scottish house, it’s more about developing Barrie as an international brand, in an age when “I think we’re all a bit from everywhere.”
The fall 2019 collection, scheduled for Feb. 28 in a new space on Rue Cambon, features a full cashmere denim capsule with contrast topstitching, second-skin ski pieces, and a full men’s capsule, though the designer likes to think of Barrie, and cashmere itself, as being unisex. In the past the house has produced a sprinkling of men’s pieces.
Highlights include tartan patchwork knits; sweaters with 3-D thistle patterns on the sleeve; cropped logo cardigans and cashmere fleeces with Lurex trims. More directional pieces include a quilted cashmere bomber and a pinstripe cashmere tuxedo with a pajama attitude.
The brand owns two stores: on Rue Cambon in Paris and in Burlington Arcade in London.