PARIS — After 12 years designing the children’s line for luxury Parisian retailer Bonpoint, Christine Innamorato decided to finally satisfy a recurring demand from her clients. “All of them, across all nationalities, kept saying the same thing,” said the French designer, who had her own namesake women’s wear line until a year and a half ago: “‘I want the same item in an adult version.’”
Cue Bonpoint Paris, the brand’s new women’s wear line set to be unveiled at the Hôtel de Brancas on Oct. 1 following a soft launch for fall 2018. The collection, which will be presented alongside the launch of the house’s latest fragrance, is more than just a “grown-up” version of the children’s wear line.
“Even if some pieces are the same style, obviously the fit isn’t the same,” said Innamorato, adding that the studio hired an additional pattern-cutter for the line. “The fabrication is tailored specifically for women.” A cream viscose tuxedo is available in both child and adult versions, as is a delicate striped cotton poplin shirt.
Quality materials are at the core of the Bonpoint universe. “I like noble textiles, such as beautiful poplin, cashmere, cotton, leather,” Innamorato said. “You can’t cheat with children: If a pair of shoes is uncomfortable, a child will just throw them across the room and refuse to wear them.” Most of the clothes are produced in Portugal, with the exception of the cashmere pieces that are knitted in China using Italian fibers.
A standout piece of the Bonpoint Paris spring 2019 collection is a charcoal leather coat with a black Neoprene lining. Innamorato was intent on creating timeless pieces for an everyday wardrobe, rather than trend-led silhouettes that would eventually go out of style. “I wanted to design pieces that you would wear, then store at the end of the season, then bring out again because you genuinely love this coat.”
The color palette was inspired by Luca Guadagnino’s 2015 film “A Bigger Splash,” precisely a scene where the lead character, played by Tilda Swinton, is seen walking in a loosely draped white shirt against a pink wall. Long skirts, checkered sundresses, short-sleeved shirts and knitted tops come in muted pastel colors, as if “faded by the sun.” Prints are bold: The collection features a fun wax-printed two-piece suit.
Innamorato also produced a line of accessories, including bags designed in collaboration with brands L/Uniform and the Cambridge Satchel Co., as well as footwear. Canvas slip-on sneakers and sandals, either in black or with bright Velcro straps, fit with the relaxed feel the designer wanted for the collection. “I didn’t want anything too cutesy. I didn’t design any heels for this season, but it might happen for the next.”
Bonpoint already carried a young adult line named YAM (which stood for “Y’en A Marre,” or “Fed Up” in English) which has been discontinued. The YAM shop on Rue de l’Université has been turned into a dedicated Bonpoint Paris store, with the collection also available in some of the brand’s 45 points of retail as well as online. T-shirts are priced around 75 euros and dresses between 300 euros and 500 euros, with coats reaching up to 1,500 euros.
Model Audrey Marnay is the face of Bonpoint Paris. “It made perfect sense to choose Audrey, as she is also a mother,” Innamorato said. “I don’t have anything against the extremely young models other brands seem to favor, but I wanted to tell a different story.”