One to Watch: Jourden
Jourden feels wise beyond its years. Launched in 2012 by Anaïs Mak, the Hong Kong-based label, a finalist for the LVMH prize in 2015, is already distributed in 33 points of sale, including an international crop of big-hitters like Colette, Barneys New York, Lane Crawford and Isetan.
Next up, the brand, which presented in Paris for the second time, wants to focus on storytelling, or in the words of Mak: “making it into more of a personality for people to get to know.” Aside from developing new categories — starting with footwear this season — the designer also wants to pursue quirky hook-ups unrelated to fashion, like toys and stationary.
Known for her plays on texture and volume, Mak, who describes her upbringing in Hong Kong as “disciplined,” likes to reinterpret classic shapes and techniques like pleating, quilting, smocking and embroidery “to let the modernity come in,” mixing artisanal and industrial techniques.
A graduate of Studio Berçot in Paris, she honed her skills in the ateliers of local garment makers and tailors on trips back to Hong Kong during her studies.
“I always think about the primary aspirations of girls, what girls really want to wear,” said the designer, who through her designs subverts the idea of “proper” clothes and preppy innocence, skewing proportions, playing on visual effects and spinning a soupcon of edge on silhouettes.
Highlights for spring include smocked oxford shirts with peekaboo back slits, Sixties-infused paisley jacquard denim jackets, neo-bourgeois dresses with crisscross halter tops in abstract floral motifs and voluminous “evening-daywear” maxiskirts in feathery fil coupé broken by colored sections of tulle.
Retail prices range from $325 for a ruffled shirt to $1,525 for a maxi coat.
A capsule of eight shoe styles in collaboration with the well-known French footwear brand Carel also plays on the idea of twisting feminine classics, ranging from a knee-high spin on the mary jane to thigh-high boots with ballerina-inspired crisscross lacing.