By Mimosa Spencer and Joelle Diderich
with contributions from Luisa Zargani
 on September 21, 2020
Gigi Hadid and models on the catwalk

PARIS — Paris Fashion week is firming up with plans for 18 physical fashion shows — including Dior, Hermès, Chanel and Louis Vuitton — and a number of presentations, even as fears mount in Europe over spiraling cases of the coronavirus and fresh cross-border measures cast uncertainty on travel plans. 

Rounding out the season, Paris will welcome 84 brands during the week, which runs Sept. 28 to Oct. 6, according to the latest list released Monday by the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode.

In addition to the planned shows, there will be 20 physical presentations and 45 digital events. 

The Fédération said it is working closely with local authorities, passing on recommendations to brands planning to hold events in the French capital and working with regional health authorities to draw up specific protocols for the shows and presentations. The number of guests allowed varies according to venues, but the Fédération noted that most houses plan to invite only 20 to 25 percent of the number of guests they did in past seasons.

Labels have been carefully preparing to hold shows and presentations with limited numbers of guests — or none, according to certain backup scenarios — as the resurgence in COVID-19 cases complicates matters and raises the possibility of last-minute changes. 

In Italy, the Minister of Health Roberto Speranza signed a decree Monday saying travelers coming from France will have to take a COVID-19 test. 

In Italy, a number of brands have opted out of holding a physical show, including Prada and Giorgio Armani, while Versace, which had planned a catwalk presentation, last week pivoted to a digital presentation as a safety precaution.

In France, where COVID-19 cases have been rising in recent weeks, authorities have implemented more stringent measures on a case-by-case basis, shutting down individual classes, rather than entire schools, for example, and requiring masks at workplaces and on the streets. 

Labels planning to hold shows are Coperni, Victoria/Tomas, Dior, Koché, Kenzo, Gauchère, Acne Studios, Balmain, Chloé, Isabel Marant, Yohji Yamamoto, Hermès, Ami, Gabriela Hearst, Paco Rabanne, Xuly Bët, Chanel and Louis Vuitton.  

The presentations are Patou, Kenneth Ize, Dice Kayek, Maison Mai, Alexis Mabille, Enfants Riches Déprimés, Emanuel Ungaro, Leonard Paris, Alexandre Vauthier, Germanier, Olivier Theyskens, Ester Manas, Mazarine, Schiaparelli, Vejas, Zadig & Voltaire, Giambattista Valli and Mossi.

The federation will use the digital system it set up in July, which will be accessible to the public while also including specific areas reserved for professionals. It also has a showroom for emerging brands called Sphere, which will take place at the Palais de Tokyo and online.

In addition to its partnership with Launchmetrics, which built the digital platform, the federation also has partnerships with YouTube, Google, Instagram, Facebook and, in China, Hylink. Venues working with the Federation include the Château de Versailles, the Palais Galliera Musée de la Mode et de la Ville de Paris, the Musée d’Art Modern de Paris and the MUCEM in Marseilles. 

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