Chloé RTW Spring 2021

PARIS — Paris Fashion Week will go ahead in March with 93 brands presenting their fall collections, in what promises to be another purely digital event given ongoing restrictions designed to limit the spread of the coronavirus.

The Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode published its preliminary calendar on Monday confirming the absence of several brands, including Kenzo, which announced separately that it planned to unveil a film on March 26. 

The federation did not specify the format for each show or presentation, but its men’s and haute couture shows in January were all-online affairs as public gatherings remain banned in France, where a curfew is in effect from 6 p.m. daily.

Among the most anticipated collections of the week are Chloé, with Gabriela Hearst presenting her debut collection since being named artistic director of the French fashion house, and Courrèges, where Nicolas Di Felice will also be unveiling his first designs since joining in September. Both shows will take place on March 3.

All eyes will also be on Givenchy, where Matthew Williams will present his first full coed collection on March 7, in what was supposed to be his debut runway show since joining the brand. The format of the presentation is not yet known. 

Joining the calendar this season are Jil Sander, which is unveiling its collection on March 7 and normally shows in Milan, and Japanese brand Ujoh. For the first time, the week will open with a show by graduates from the Institut Français de la Mode fashion school.

Among the returning brands are Stella McCartney, Lanvin and Ann Demeulemeester, in addition to Paul Smith, Véronique Leroy, Maison Rabih Kayrouz and Lecourt Mansion.

Demeulemeester, which was bought by Claudio Antonioli in September, has not yet announced a replacement for designer Sebastien Meunier, who parted ways with the brand in July 2020.

Several brands had previously announced a switch in timing, such as Y/Project, which has gone coed and now shows on the men’s calendar, and Balenciaga, which unveiled its fall 2021 collection via a bespoke video game in December. 

Ami said last week it would present its collection digitally with a video on March 11, shortly after Paris Fashion Week, which runs from March 1 to 9. Maison Margiela likewise had flagged it would show outside the official calendar, though no date has been set so far.

Wales Bonner and Gabriela Hearst are missing from the Paris women’s schedule after making their debuts in the French capital last season. Wales Bonner showed her men’s and women’s collections together during Paris Men’s Fashion Week in January, while Hearst is on the American Collections Calendar for Feb. 18.

See also:

Antonioli Acquires Ann Demeulemeester

Y/Project Switches to Coed Collection Schedule

Maison Margiela Postpones Couture and RTW Shows