Julien David: Carving out a niche for high-end tailored garments with a streetwear soul, burgeoning Tokyo-based designer Julien David will stage his first fashion show on March 8 in a gallery in Paris’ Saint-Germain-des-Prés neighborhood. David, who is French, based his collection on the notion of transition — specifically the transformation from 2-D to 3-D — explored via digital and freehand prints and new volumes and proportions for coats, jackets and dresses.
“We have studied two main silhouettes for this collection, a sort of lower 2-D/3-D [take on the] ‘New Look’ [silhouette] and a straighter shape with a lot of volume and various lengths,” said the designer. David, known for his luxury scarves, will feature tops and dresses in his signature silk twill, sometimes mixed with nylon mesh. Alpaca knitted sweaters and shawls are also on offer.
David worked with a factory in Ichinomiya, Japan, on the collection, which features three types of wool for outerwear, including a medium-weight twill used to line high-tech waterproof nylon rainwear.
— Katya Foreman
Corrado de Biase: After launching a capsule couture and ready-to-wear line in Rome and Paris last season, Italian designer Corrado de Biase will hold his first runway show in Paris on March 1 at the Théâtre du Châtelet. He is currently a shoe designer at John Galliano and Rochas.
Titled “Miami on Fire,” the fashion line continues the designer’s experimentation with shapes, often using felted wool with big bold zippers and Rhodoid darts. The line is done exclusively in graphic black-and-white except for an ink-jet landscape print of burning palm trees and buildings. Sporty jersey dresses echoing wetsuits evoke the fantasy tale of a chic woman who moves to Miami to find love with a young skater-surfer, only to be cheated on, and takes revenge by setting the city on fire.
Prices range from 700 euros, or about $963 at current exchange, for jersey pieces to 2,100 euros, or $2,889, for an elaborate hooded blouson.
— Laurent Folcher
Requiem: Among small labels generating buzz from retailers this season is Requiem. Founded in 2005, the Paris-based fashion brand is overseen by Raffaele Borriello, following the departure of co-founder Julien Desselle in 2009 to pursue architecture. Among new developments, Tagor Group recently acquired a 51 percent stake in the brand.
In the mood for streamlining, designer Borriello said he stripped the line of typical cocktail-couture froufrou, like volume and ruffle, for a cleaner day-to-night wardrobe. Highlights include slim coats in contrasting blue and black fabrics, a double-face cashmere and fantasy-fur cape and day dresses in a variety of neutral shapes. The line will be presented on March 3 at Requiem’s new digs: 11 Rue Saint-Florentin in the first arrondissement.
Gianfranco Scotti: Gianfranco Scotti has spent the past quarter-century working for private clients and other designers within his couture atelier — including in the late Nineties with Oscar de la Renta at Balmain and at Josephus Thimister. Now, the Paris-based Italian designer has jumped into the rtw fray.
His first collection, of 15 to 20 looks, will be presented by appointment from March 1 to 3 at his atelier at 5 Rue Taylor in the 10th arrondissement and emphasizes Scotti’s love for the decades of the Teens and the Forties. Focusing on simplicity and quality, the line includes tailored jackets with constructed shoulders and refined hand-stitched details, and crisp white shirts. His “garçonne” wardrobe evolves with pleated, draped, deconstructed dresses. This serene if slightly austere line is part of a growing trend for small atelier-crafted collections in Paris.
Arzu Kaprol: Arzu Kaprol is no fashion upstart. Although a relative newcomer to Paris, over in her native Turkey, where Kaprol’s namesake label has been around since 1998, she is considered part of the fashion establishment.
The designer will make her Paris runway debut with “Archeology of the Future” at the Westin hotel on Rue de Castiglione on March 9, with a mostly black offering that mixes leather with silk and chiffon, silk crepe, brocade and fringe.
“I like mixing fabrics and believe in futuristic design,” said the designer, who will join Dice Kayek as one of just a few Turkish faces on the schedule.
“I guess I’m the first one to show in Paris who is also based in and inspired by Istanbul,” added Kaprol, explaining that she’s lucky enough to have an “amazing production advantage,” thanks to a deal inked three years ago with Beyman, Turkey’s leading upscale retailer. Beyman is behind the designer’s Turkish manufacturing and has also helped her open six Arzu Kaprol stores and three corners in Beyman stores in Turkey.
Kaprol’s collection was sold to Seibu in Hong Kong and Takashiyama in Japan, and is available in Harvey Nichols and Bloomingdale’s in Dubai.