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Soviet constructivism seems an unlikely source of sartorial inspiration, but Philomena Zanetti designer Julia Leifert thinks of it this way: The Soviets “were completely rebuilding society in the Twenties,” she said, “and I think that is what we need to do today.”

For Leifert, in her second Berlin Fashion Week season, this means a dedication towards sustainability and eco-conscious production methods — and always trying her hand at new fabrics. She used white paper to create a bandeau top and an A-line skirt “that are very durable and machine washable”, the designer insisted. The highlight was a chocolate-brown coat with a tie waist that looked like leather — but was actually made from cork.

Style-wise, the philosophy translated into several stark, clinical looks, like boxy, cotton shirts and loose overalls in bright white. Ivory silk blouses with bell sleeves and a pale floral print — a first for the brand — were a nod to more demure femininity.