Size mattered at the Paris shows this season, at least when it came to hair. Dior, Chanel and Emanuel Ungaro each channeled crosses between Madame Pompadour and Brian Setzer of the Stray Cats — varying the height of pinned-in poufs. On the flip side, small heads were equally prevalent: Odile Gilbert’s tiny French twists at Rochas, Orlando Pita’s tucked-under pageboys at Givenchy and Eugene Souleiman’s free-and-easy ponytails at Stella McCartney.Orlando Pita, who had a hand in both extremes (Dior and Givenchy) offered his reasoning for the pinhead trend: “I think it has a lot to do with the collections. There are a lot of furs and high collars, and with those looks, you don’t want hair to be big and messy.”No, that look was saved for John Galliano, where Yemen, Peru, the Edwardian era and bag ladies were just a few of the inspirations. So Pita piled on everything from ivy to silver fox tails (and heads) to Coke cans and Saran wrap, giving the models’ neck muscles a workout.Equally eye-catching were the does-in-the-headlights at Viktor & Rolf, where Pat McGrath halo-ed eyes in white shadow, added whiskery lashes and swept liner. Luigi Morenu frizzed hair to electric-shock proportions, then wrapped pieces of it around antlers to hold them in place.White also shaded eyes for the models from another planet at Alexander McQueen, as MAC makeup artist Val Garland pronounced that white is the new nude. “Of course, here, we’ve taken it to the McQueen level, so we used it to remove all their features.” Back on Earth, however, this shade was used rather elegantly at Ungaro and Valentino, and perhaps was the reason that the classic smoky eye wasn’t quite as smoky this season, as shades of pewter (Nina Ricci) and chocolate (Givenchy) filled in for the venerable black.

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