Sonia Rykiel took a page out of Jeanne Moreau’s garçon getup in “Jules et Jim” for cruise. She featured floppy cloche hats; boyish, rolled-up baggy pants, and chunky cotton knits — belted on high — in sugary hues of violet and cream. And a bell-sleeve cotton satin trench over a whimsical cotton lace dress was perfect for a day out at Deauville. A playful spirit was also in evidence at Celine. Designer Ivana Omazic had Jacques Henri Lartigue photos of Biarritz in mind for her cruise collection of ladylike sportswear, and she made sly references to Asia with origami-like bows on cocktail dresses and lacquer-like beading on gowns.
Photographic inspiration also played a part in Tory Burch’s resort looks, but instead of old lensmasters, she looked to shots of her parents honeymooning in Acapulco in the Sixties, as well as to artist Frida Kahlo. Burch showed embroidered dresses and tunics in vivid colors, ruffled nylon windbreakers and plenty of her signature polos for the season.
Meanwhile, at Ellen Tracy, “it’s always about color,” according to design director George Sharp. Bright orange and celery greens popped out among a neutral palette of beige and white in his cruise collection of sharp career pieces, such as great suits and trenches, but there was also a touch of spice in the washed-silk white cargoes and a paisley-printed silk skirt.