MILAN — The Vintage Spirit Multistore will show a collection of 50 Emilio Pucci vintage pieces during Milan Fashion Week next month. The exhibition will run from Sept. 23 to Oct. 2.
In addition to ready-to-wear, accessories and eyewear, the collection includes swimwear and innerwear pieces specifically designed by Pucci for the American market in the Sixties.
“We felt this was the right moment for a Pucci exhibition,” said Angelo Caroli, who has been collecting Pucci for 18 years and who will lend the pieces to the boutique.
“There are peaks for most designers, but Pucci is always up there,” said Caroli, who stores more than 50,000 vintage pieces from different designers in his “Vintage Palace” in Lugo di Romagna, a three-hour drive east of here, off the Adriatic coast. “His colors and patterns are recognizable, and those who followed never had the same strength or use of color.”
Caroli said Pucci’s influence is still very strong because he was so powerful. “Influential designers may wane for a while, but they always eventually come back,” he said. Caroli also noted Pucci’s pieces were coordinated in a way that is not conceivable today. “I have found head-to-toe looks, complete with coats and accessories, that featured the same print — and they were meant to be worn together.”
Caroli is quite an influential presence here; designers and fashion students flock to his archives. Part of his collection is also for sale. “These clothes should be visible, not locked away in cabinets,” he said.
Vintage Spirit Multistore opened a year ago in Piazza Cantore, in the Navigli area. One of the few large, quality vintage boutiques in this city, it includes items from Burberry to Hermès, Church’s to Christian Dior and Ken Scott. In April, the store held an event focused on plastic and synthetic materials during the furniture and design fair Salone del Mobile, showing clothes by Courrèges, Roberta di Camerino and Paco Rabanne.