NEW YORK — From big diamond rings and cuff bracelets to lariat necklaces and sparkling earrings, fine jewelry lit up the New York runways this season. While jewelry houses have long helped dress stars for the Oscars, Emmys and other red-carpet affairs, some have only recently awakened to the benefits of being on fashion runways. A number of big-name jewelers got in on the act for spring, including Bulgari at Michael Kors, Fred Leighton at Badgley Mischka, Harry Winston at Zac Posen, Cartier at Jeffrey Chow and David Yurman at As Four.
“Fashion has such amazing exposure, and working with designers and being on the runway is a way to get our jewelry in front of the press and potential clients,” said Anjanette Spreen, vice president of marketing at Vivid Collection, which worked with Carmen Marc Valvo to create jewels for his runway show. “I think designers used to be afraid to incorporate jewelry, but now they’re willing to make a statement with it at their shows.”
Alice Roi also collaborated with a diamond jeweler —Elara — to create one-of-a-kind pieces for her presentation. At newcomer Gustavo Arango’s show, nearly every look was accompanied by fine jewelry, much of it bold and gold. The Puerto Rican native even brought his local jeweler, Reinhold Jewelers owner Marie Helene Morrow, to New York to coordinate jewelry with his clothes.
Meanwhile, Vera Wang’s new fine jewelry collection made a stunning debut this season. Produced under license by the diamond concern Rosy Blue, the premier line of Wang jewelry includes diamonds and other gems set in delicate gold, platinum or titanium, often in floral motifs, and the collection will hit stores in early 2004. This was also a good season for timepieces, with big white and black Movado watches worn at the Stephen Burrows show, and Chopard’s diamond cuff number at Lloyd Klein.
PHOTOS BY DAVID TURNER, THOMAS IANNACCONE, ROBERT MITRA, GEORGE CHINSEE, TALAYA CENTENO, JOHN AQUINO; VALVO: COURTESY OF VALVO