FIRST THINGS FIRST: Opening bell or last word? Anthony Vaccarello has opted for the former for his debut as the creative helm of Saint Laurent. The French house has scheduled its spring 2017 show for 8 p.m. on Sept. 27, the first day of Paris Fashion Week, which runs through Oct. 5.

Under various predecessors, including the most recent one, Hedi Slimane, the Saint Laurent show typically fell toward the end of the nine-day schedule. It is understood that Vaccarello, who put his signature collection on hold to devote himself to Saint Laurent, simply wished to keep his usual slot on the opening day.

The Chambre Syndicale has yet to release even a preliminary schedule. Saint Laurent noted it would confirm its venue later.