PARIS — Jil Sander’s back — not just at her signature fashion house, but with a new women’s fragrance, called Jil Sander Pure, starting this fall.
“I think it’s such a great moment — it is like someone directed it so it could [all] happen just now,” Sander told WWD at her scent’s press launch here.
Indeed, Sander’s comeback with the fragrance after three years of absence is also a homecoming.
“When we started developing fragrances with Jil Sander, the first one [in 1977] was called Women Pure,” explained Michele Scannavini, president of the Lancaster Group, Coty Inc.’s prestige division. Now, the company is about to launch its next Pure installment, taking its cue from Sander’s clean and spare design.
“Jil Sander Pure encapsulates the key values of the brand,” said Francoise Mariez, senior vice president of marketing for fragrances at Lancaster Group.
The project has a highly modern approach. Take its advertising, for instance. The black-and-white photo features statuesque model Vivian Solari drawing the string of a bow sans arrow.
“What she’s targeting is herself,” said Frederique Bernascone, international marketing director at Jil Sander Fragrances. “She knows where she wants to go.”
The word Pure stretches in white across the width of the page under Solari’s upraised arms. There’s also a product shot in the lower right-hand corner and, above, the tag line: “Jil Sander the new fragrance for women.”
The print ad comes in single and double-pages, which were created by Air advertising agency’s Tho Van Tran and shot by photographer Mikael Jansson. It will break starting in September, when the scent is introduced in Europe and travel retail. Another version of the visual, focusing on Solari’s face, will be released in the Middle East when the scent’s launched, also in September.
Jil Sander Pure will first bow exclusively at Colette in Paris in mid-July.
The fragrance is an abstract floral woody musk created by Firmenich’s Nathalie Lorson and Ilias Ermenidis.
“It’s an easy-to-wear fragrance, which [brings to mind] elegance and modernity,” said Lorson.
Built on a spiral-like olfactive structure, rather than the traditional pyramid, its notes are meant to be apparent through the dry-down. They include jasmine, cyclamen, green sap, white musk, sandalwood and ambrette seed.
The juice also has a transparent molecule that’s being used for the first time in a commercial scent, Firmenich perfumers said. They call it “a blow of freshness” — slightly aquatic and vegetal, though not green.
Fabien Baron, of Baron & Baron, designed the streamlined, clear Jil Sander Pure bottle that’s an upright rectangle. The word “Pure” appears from the back of the bottle and joins with “Jil Sander” in smaller typeface on the front.
Although Lancaster executives would not discuss numbers, industry sources estimate Jil Sander Pure will generate $25 million in retail sales during its first 12 months.
Jil Sander Pure will come as a 50-ml. eau de toilette for $57 and a 75-ml. edt for $73. There will also be ancillaries, including a 200-ml. shower gel for $29, a 200-ml. body milk for $33 and a 40-ml. deodorant gel for $22.
All dollar prices are converted from the euro at current exchange rates.
Lancaster executives say they expect Jil Sander Pure to be among the main pillars of the Sander franchise, which includes the Sun and Sun Men fragrances, and Sander for Men and Sensation.
“Compared to Sun, they’re a bit more sophisticated and have a higher positioning in terms of price,” said Scannavini of the latter two scents.
For its part, Jil Sander Pure will target an urban demographic.
When it comes to regional reach for the entire Jil Sander brand, Scannavini said it has a very strong presence in Germany, but also elsewhere in Northern and Central Europe.
“We are developing in a very positive way in Italy,” where Jil Sander Pure will be introduced during fashion week this fall, he added.
And, for the future, Scannavini is broadening the horizons even more. The idea? “To make Jil Sander global,” he said.