NEW YORK — Han Feng has set her sights on Shanghai.
In addition to opening an outpost there last month, the designer plans to live there in June and July while she relocates all production to China and looks for a contractor to make her home collection. Feng aims to take advantage of China’s status as the world’s fastest-growing major economy and epicenter for global trade growth.
This is a bit of a homecoming for Feng, who grew up in China and left there 19 years ago.
“China is blooming. In this century, China is going to grow so fast and there will be such a hunger for new designs and new ideas,” she said. “It’s a great source for production. I’m very happy to see my own country produce things so fast.”
In December, the designer secured about $2 million in financial backing, in part to open the Shanghai store and to bolster her $5 million business. At that time, she opened her first freestanding unit, a 550-square-foot door here at 174 Ninth Avenue. But there are no plans for additional stores.
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Despite her enthusiasm about Shanghai, the designer cautioned that production costs are bound to increase in the years ahead. “I don’t think in the future China will be the cheapest place for production, because everyone is going there,” she said.
That hasn’t deterred her from jumping in. By using Chinese factories, Feng will decrease her production costs. The savings will enable her to stage her first Bryant Park fashion show during 7th on Sixth in September. She also aims to find one factory that will make her apparel, accessories and home design goods. The latter is a new venture for the designer, who has done ceramics and limited-edition home furnishings for herself and friends over the years.
Last month, her first concept shop in the Far East opened at Three on the Bund, a tony shopping center on Shanghai’s historic waterfront in a 1916 neo-classic bank building, complete with vaulted ceilings. The first floor is devoted to Giorgio Armani, and the second floor consists of eight designers, including Feng, Marni, Yves Saint Laurent and Ann Demeulemeester.
Feng is the first designer from China to be part of this group and most Shanghai shoppers consider her to be a Chinese designer even though she has lived in the U.S. for half of her life.
“They know Yohji [Yamamoto] and Marni,” she said. “They’re excited to see my stuff because they’ve heard about me, but have never seen my store.”
Feng said she sold about 75 units on opening day to several Chinese rock stars and film people who don’t look at price tags. Bestsellers include $300 scarves, a $250 pleated skirt and a $500 evening coat.
“Scarves are most important because they can be worn many different ways. [Consumers] love things that are playful,” said Feng, adding that shoppers are not put off by the price tag, which is expensive, due to duty taxes for the American-made items.
Feng first met Handel Lee, co-chairman of House of Three Ltd., an investment holding company set up in March 2000 to develop parts of the Bund, about three years ago. “Now China is ready,” she said.
In addition to the designer treatment, Three on the Bund houses a Jean-Georges Vongerichten restaurant, a Michael Graves-designed Evian Spa and the Shanghai Art Gallery.
Having visited Shanghai several times over the years, Feng said, “The last time I visited was the first time I loved it and thought I could live there. Every time I go there, I see how it’s growing so fast. The quality of life is good, everywhere is so clean, the food is delicious and apartments can be found easily. But it’s not so cheap.”
— Rosemary Feitelberg