David Szeto: Subtle references to Spaghetti Westerns and “Destry Rides Again,” starring Marlene Dietrich, perfumed David Szeto’s charming collection. Tiny florals were actually resized kimono prints, and prairie dresses came embellished with colorful rhinestones that formed a paisley motif, echoing the bandana scarf. In a tailored vein, oversize men’s jackets were done up with pockets like Western shirts.
Thierry Colson: Thierry Colson remains rooted in the 18th century, this time getting a little more theatrical, with Empire dresses, bloomers and “Hamlet”-style short dresses in richly colored luxe fabrics that echoed Yves Saint Laurent’s Russian peasant looks. Gold brocade dresses embroidered with blooms were charming, while an ink black velvet coat with frogging and a roomy hood added an air of mystery.
Hamilton Paris: For the collection’s starting point, designers Charles Sebline and Sophie Hamilton looked to the interior of the Hamilton family castle, which was decorated by David Hicks in the Seventies. The design duo focused on reworking Hicks’ iconic Clinch print, which they had reproduced by hand in shades of green and tangerine for an urban yet romantic wardrobe inspired by both Russian peasant looks and the ever-chic Loulou de la Falaise.
Neil Barrett: Neil Barrett explored innovative textures, using Neoprene on fitted scubalike jackets, for instance, or artfully scuffing the edges of black leather for a rock ’n’ roll jersey dress and T-shirt. Other hits included a sheepskin-lined white parka with a hood trimmed in lush goat hair, and classic men’s sweaters shrunken down to a woman’s fit.
Lapidus Vintage: Olivier Lapidus, son of the house’s late founder, Ted Lapidus, is behind this collection, now in its third season. His father made LBDs for Edith Piaf (though she apparently never settled her bills for them), which inspired an intricately constructed fitted navy-and-black wool dress. Lapidus Vintage also revisited some of its great archive coats, like one vivid orange 1955 design honed from 56 strips of felted wool, not to mention a loden safari jacket with patch pockets and a checked red-and-cream style made from blanket fabric.