Loewe: With a light touch, Enrique Ona Selfa worked up his second Loewe collection, combining the ease of jogging gear with simplified luxury. Now, that’s a smooth move. He worked almost exclusively in leather, suede and fur, ranging from basic brown to cocoa to tan. Here, taking a straightforward approach to up-to-the-minute dressing meant pairing a dark brown fur hooded sweatshirt with slim suede pants, splicing strips of perforated suede to create a smart jacket and finishing the edges of a leather coat to mimic knit banding.
And Ona Selfa’s rich track jackets and sporty fare are on the right course. By sticking to the simpler side of trendy, the designer avoided much of what tripped up his predecessors at the house. Dresses that fell across the hips like bunchy breeches were a rare mistake. Ona Selfa fared better when working a simple look, and that, of course, is never as simple as it looks.
Martin Grant: With the return to elegance sweeping through fashion, Australian Martin Grant pushed the right envelope with a sophisticated collection for fall. Over the last seven years, since he opened his Paris house, Grant has developed a cult following with girls who love his subtly elegant clothes, updated with a modern twist. Working a ballet theme, Grant offered mini dancer’s skirts in tulle and pleated skirts, paired with black turtleneck sweaters or a beige mohair jumper with tulle peeking out at the wrist.
Meanwhile, a Victorian influence infused the designer’s long and sweeping high-waisted coats, while short leather jackets and coats were stitched with a motif that Grant said he took from Japanese samurai armor. He likes to mix day and evening wear, which he did with black cocktail dresses adorned with a trompe l’oeil knot and his gold satin or brown suede trenches. In all, the designer, who is trying to grow his business this year by opening a larger shop and expanding his retail clients abroad, delivered a classic and chic vision for urban women.