Accessories designers are revving things up for spring with mile-high wedges, jewel-embellished bags and heels and safari-inspired pieces. Although the looks are still feminine, the mood is much more relaxed and bohemian.

At Tod’s, the Wenghe is the bag of the season. Detailed with wooden closures and touches of zebra-patterned leather, it’s the perfect accessory to accompany the safari chic that played an important role on the runways. Meanwhile, at Hogan streamlined ladylike wedges, elegant flat sandals with simple straps and two-toned canvas and leather totes were right on track. Bally’s spring collection stayed true to its traditional Euro-prep look. Canvas handbags and totes in classic shapes were detailed with colorful leathers, while simple wedges and strappy heels were fashioned in super-soft suedes.

Elsewhere, Valextra, known for their luxury bags and travel goods, offered classic handbags and suitcases in spring colors such as white, yellow and green. The company also debuted a line of elegant shoes, which have pointed toes and simple, yet sexy, heels. Ladylike looks ruled at Bruno Magli, too. Peep-toed and round-toed pumps were accented with soft bows and finely silhouetted heels, while wedges had two-toned straps. Apart from the classic loafers, the spring collection at Car Shoe was filled with sweet, feminine flats. Flower-printed fabrics and butter-soft perforated leathers added distinctive touches to sophisticated ballet flats.

Vicini designer Guiseppe Zanotti, for his part, offered an array of sultry shoes featuring everything from curved wooden wedges to oversized rhinestones. And things are heating up at Sergio Rossi, too. With super-high Lucite platforms in Pop Art colors and metallic gold, caged-toe pumps, the collection is aimed at the likes of Britney Spears, whose wedding shoes Rossi created. Rene Caovilla, who recently opened his first store in Milan, took his jeweled creations to a higher level, adding colorful cabochons and pavé stones even to the undersides of his designs.

At Furla, where Tonya Hawkes’ third collection had a playful refinement, bags detailed with suede flowers dotted with oversized pearls and vintage-inspired luxe totes in muted hues were among the highlights. And Melissa Loyd Maish, who has previously designed men’s accessories and been a creative director at Bally, debuted her first women’s collection. She showed classically shaped bags and carryalls with luxe stitching and flower motifs.

This story first appeared in the October 4, 2004 issue of WWD. Subscribe Today.