College students are a passionate lot, and WWD recruited fashion lovers — journalists, designer hopefuls, even a few high scorers from our 2003 Fashion Awareness Quiz — to review their favorite fall 2004 collections from Style.com.
Alison Cool, Barnard College, ’04
WBAR Barnard Radio show host
DSquared: This collection seems to be addressing that age-old question, “If hipsters went hunting, what would they wear?” The answer, as it turns out, is combination ushanka-trucker hats. Also, little-boy underwear — for late nights in the hunting lodge?
Stella McCartney: Stella has found ingenious ways to morph the down comforter into cute and hip outfits and accessories. Truly visionary.
Proenza Schouler: I’m so glad the aristocratic, British schoolboy look is now an option for ladies of all ages and nationalities. I just hope Proenza Schouler makes a leather book strap to coordinate, you know?
Amy Gorin, University of Florida, ’04
Artist and photographer
Anna Sui: Her bold color combinations and innovative patterns are energetic and make me want to get up and dance — with confidence.
Helmut Lang: Helmut Lang is tight, clean and fun, while taking the color black
to a new level.
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Anne Lehman, Boston University, ’04
High scorer, WWD’s 2003 FAQ
Versace: I think one of the big problems with runway shows is that they are way too inaccessible to the everyday clotheshorse, but Versace did a great job of taking those big pieces and patterns and pairing them with clothes I would actually wear. Oh, yeah, and the dresses were to die for.
Narciso Rodriguez: I loved the sort of “updated classics” feel of this show.
Derek Blasberg, NYU, ’04
Former fashion correspondent, Washington Square News
Proenza Schouler: I think that this, their third “real” show, has been their best —
it still had many of the dainty accents, patterns and techniques that the duo has made their trademark, but also incorporated a darker, harder, aggressive, more Helmut Newton-esque silhouette into their collection.
Louis Vuitton: Oh, Marc. While his own line is vintage-inspired, I liked what he did at Louis Vuitton as well — producing the feminine and refined pieces that LV’s ready-to-wear needs to be, but also underlined with an element or aura of punk — especially in the accessories — that I think will become more relevant in more collections in seasons to come.
Katia Schonenberg, University of Miami, ’06
Civilian fashion lover
Versace: Very tasteful use of plaid. I’m still not sure how the models can manage to look so retro in such basic styles, though — must be the hair.
Roberto Cavalli: I’m thinking funky and delightfully naughty. I’ve got to admit I really like this line.
Kira Frederick, Florida Atlantic University, ’04
Civilian fashion lover
Louis Vuitton: Louis Vuitton, how do I love thee? Let me count the ways. Eye-popping designs. Deep, red tones and dusky-colored dresses inspired by the Forties and Fifties. Fur coats swung modestly around the perfect black dresses.
Gucci: Sophistication and professionalism at its best.
Kristen Stimps, Loyola Marymount University Los Angeles, ’04
Founder of Discover LA (uncovers student shopping and entertainment venues)
Dolce & Gabbana: This collection is absolute eye candy.
Vera Wang: Sophisticated, glamorous and elegant. The deep colors, bows, beads, and rich fabrics come together to create a line that is dazzling to the eye.
Morgan Lord, University of Florida, ’04
Editorial director, Orange & Blue
Burberry Prorsum: It’s hip, it’s dark, it’s the girl who is sitting next to you in the subway, and you’re staring a little too long at her great outfit. It’s very city, modern and bohemian.
John Galliano: With a sombrero, tons of ruffles, a corset, luggage and dangling metal accessories, this would not be a fun surprise to wake up next to after a night of partying.
Marc Jacobs: This is the girl who sits in the front row in class with a bit of a haughty air to herself, but, of course, she has the clothes to back up her attitude. You can’t help but want to jab the pencil in her hair a little further into her scalp, but instead watch her from one desk behind and admire her style.
Rachel Jamia, NYU, ’04
Fledgling designer and FAQ high scorer
Prada: Fifties that does not look Fifties, and clean, classy hippie — an impressive feat. I just hope everyone doesn’t try to imitate the collection next season. It could go horribly, horribly wrong.
Louis Vuitton: I like stylish “Braveheart.” It was like completely wearable
Vivienne Westwood — and no new bag design stealing the spotlight.
Raquel Laneri, University of Michigan, ’04
Fashion editor, The Michigan Daily
Ralph Lauren: While the monochromatic scheme that colors many a fall fashion show can often become tiresome, Lauren again shows that simple and classic do not necessarily mean boring.
D&G: Dolce and Gabbana nail the I-bought-this-outfit-at-a-thrift-store look by mixing and matching different styles, eras and fabrics. Mod go-go boots add playfulness to a Twenties-inspired, knee-length fur coat; a weathered, oversized leather jacket defeminizes a shimmery flapper dress, and sweatsuits and sneakers add some grunge to pink chiffon.
Regan Brown, Texas Christian University, ’04
Trend analyst hopeful
D&G: Dolce & Gabbana have concocted the perfect mix of Twenties flapper meets urban street chic. They accomplish this look with an interesting mix of fabrics and textures consisting of denim, velour, flowing florals and, of course, plenty of silk-screened Ts to add to the whimsy and flair of the D&G girl.
Prada: Miuccia is effortless chic. Her simple black dresses have an unforced sex appeal. Another aspect of the collection that adds to the understated elegance of Prada: the eye-catching brooches that served as clasps and embellishments.
Rhea Cortado, UCLA, ’04
Theater and arts writer, The Daily Bruin
Imitation of Christ: Subkoff blends sophisticated New York severity with a hint of breezy California attitude — totally my style.
BCBG Max Azria: I have to give two nods to BCBG for representing the West Coast. Clean lines, eye-catching colors, flattering cuts and skirts that move with the body like an angel.
Samantha Culp, Yale University, ’04
Writer, Yale Daily News
Alexander McQueen: I love the padded, stitched coats. His stuff looks fresh and exciting, even if I would never wear it.
Comme des Garçons: The art damage, the pretension, the superdork shoes — I love it.
Proenza Schouler: Solid and bitchy.
Tracy Toole, University of Florida, ’04
Spearheading upcoming fashion issue, Orange & Blue
DSquared: This duo might actually bring back plaid flannel. By mixing red plaid tops with hunting hats, they paid homage to their native Canada while in Milan.
Anna Sui: Though some pieces crashed into each other to become overwhelming, like pink patterned tights with a patterned skirt and jacket, other combinations, such as a simple pair of jeans with a pink tweed jacket and sheer scarf, worked perfectly.
Tze Chun, Columbia University, ’04
Aspiring designer
Stella McCartney: Stella McCartney answered the right personal ad: feminine nymph with boyish figure seeking urban counterpart with a tough edge. This collection has it all: wrap sweaters and bow-adorned sashes that return to the high waistlines of the Fifties homemaker and Greta Garbo’s Forties power suit, while low-riding, satin-and-khaki pants maintain a tougher, skater-punk look.
D&G: The collection quotes vintage inspiration, such as Eighties tracksuits and Twenties pleated skirts, but projects a thoroughly modern edge. D&G makes vintage practical.
Vanessa Lawrence, Yale University, ’04
Co-founder, 7th on Yale
Alexander McQueen: I just thought these clothes were extraordinarily innovative, while still very wearable. I absolutely love the dresses with the trompe l’oeil bodices and the sort of “Flashdance”-like outfits that combined gray T-shirt material with chiffon and Lurex. It was such a clever take on layering.
Viktor & Rolf: My favorite part by far was their finale of pant-evening gown combinations. What a brilliant idea! They looked so elegant and were really the epitome of a masculine-feminine hybrid.
Victoria Elman, Columbia University, ’04
Aspiring fashion editor
Balenciaga: Wow. Diagonal zippers. Asymmetry in general. Flesh popping out of perfectly placed holes. Balloon dresses and crazy stripes. Never mind the fabulous boots. This collection is perfect.
Alexander McQueen: His use of lines, draping and ornamentation is so well thought-out that he doesn’t even need dramatic colors to portray his creative genius. The clothes are epic and futuristic at the same time — part Earth and part Pluto. That being said, his garments still look wearable in the comfortable fabrics and simplicity.