As ever, London designers traveled their own paths this season…Giles Deacon was inspired by Elsa Schiaparelli…Julien Madonald seemed to be channeling Hubert de Givenchy…at Eley Kishimoto, the inspiration was the city’s hot Brixton neighborhood…and, at Pringle, twinsets are forever.

Giles Deacon: With a calendar full of been-there, seen-that designers, Giles Deacon has become the hot ticket in town. It was also the only show to feature real live supermodels, as in Linda Evangelista, Karolina Kurkova, Guinevere van Seenus and Karen Elson. Deacon, who sells at Liberty, Selfridges and Harvey Nichols, said he was inspired by the recent Elsa Schiaparelli show in Paris. “I love those personal eccentricities, the part-jokey, part-serious way of dressing and the amazing crafts and techniques,” he said during a preview of the collection last week. “I also like clothes that are solid,” he added, pointing to the weighty silk and metallic jackets woven with giant zigzags, monkeys or marquetry designs; skirts covered in dyed blue pheasant feathers, and silk jacquard trousers woven with a bee-and-honeycomb motif. And while the collection offered plenty of tailored pieces, there were also some that were lighter and more fluid, including a tuxedo dressing-gown dress with slashed-open shoulders and flowing caftans printed with photo prints of meteors.

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