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NEW YORK — Resort is traditionally the time to keep the look and the attitude light. But for Marc Jacobs, that doesn’t mean abandoning fall’s controversial embrace of sobriety. Still, wanting relief from too-frilled and hyper-pretty fashion, he now favors a neutral palette of sedate fabrics worked into highly constructed shapes. At Marc by Marc Jacobs, moments of sobriety share the spotlight with everything from ingenue frills to madcap jauntiness in a witty, ever-expanding range. Meanwhile, at Max Mara, a faint whiff of the Forties infuses relaxed separates with a sensual air.

–Photos by John Aquino, Talaya Centeno, Thomas Iannaccone

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