The University of Westminster showcased 11 Bachelor of Arts graduates whose fashions spanned from boudoir prettiness and disco glamour to Victorian drama.
Suzi Lee’s collection stood out with her confident use of color — royal blue, burgundy, orange, black, white and blush shades — for shapes including extreme gathered pants that could have looked clownish if not for the sporty, safety-clip buckles and the topper: a fluid bomber jacket.
Lingerie and corsetry details were elegantly deployed by Catriona Wilson, who used layers and layers of delicate chiffon, silk and tulle in a lineup of pretty dresses and one lovely coat composed of multiple layers of sheer fabrics.
Also impressive was Lauren Audrey’s collection that channeled all the glamour of Studio 54 via silver over-the-knee-boots, a pleated cheerleader skirt in pink lamé and a bedazzled cropped satin varsity jacket.
The padded looks in Joshua Crabtree’s men’s wear collection were well executed, with hooded jackets and capes puffed out in nylon, and rubberized cotton used in a great overcoat and a jacket with military pockets.
William Dill-Russell experimented with proportion, using Victorian details and fabrics, like stiff taffeta and brocades, to amp up bustles, sleeves and frock coats.
Holly Priestly demonstrated a sophisticated use of texture and color in her men’s wear lineup, whose Seventies references included a snug multicolored zig-zag sweater vest worn with a turtleneck and cropped tweed trousers, and a blue leather coat overprinted with a graphic pattern.
Manon Planche’s women’s wear collection had lots of stretchy metallics in sporty shapes that would have had Judy Jetson in raptures, while Paolo Carzana brought the drama in the closing men’s collection — a conceptual range that riffed on the theme of 19th-century artists, with models in exaggerated pants or coats strapped to wooden easels that acted like overhead flagpoles for “pennants” made from huge blazers and shirts.