MILAN — Giambattista Valli’s break from fashion didn’t last long. A day after the news that Vincent Darré will replace him as creative director at Emanuel Ungaro, Valli said he will be launching his namesake line for fall 2005.

The collection will be produced and distributed under a five-year license with Gilmar, the Italian clothing manufacturer that makes the Iceberg collection. In addition, effective Nov. 1, Valli will become co-creative director of Iceberg with Paolo Gerani, son of Gilmar founders Giuliana Marchini and her husband, Silvano Gerani. Paolo Gerani is currently creative director of Iceberg, which was launched in 1974, and executive vice president of Gilmar.

The Giambattista Valli line will be at the high end of the market and distributed in select stores, according to the statement. A Valli store is set to open in New York in 2006.

Manlio Cocchini, chief executive officer of Gilmar, said the project with Valli is in line with the company’s strategy, announced earlier this year, to diversify its product offering. Cocchini also said the strategy will help designers find ways to expand their businesses through the support of a manufacturing company, which will also provide distribution.

Gilmar also produces and distributes the Gerani label, at one point designed by Rebecca Moses, and Frankie Morello under license. It is based in San Giovanni Marignano, in central Italy. The firm reported sales of about $125 million last year and produces about 1.5 million pieces per year.

This story first appeared in the October 26, 2004 issue of WWD. Subscribe Today.