LONDON — Stuart Vevers is back in his native land and ready to showcase his take on Coach men’s wear at London Collections: Men, where it will be presented on Friday in both static and runway presentations at the former Central Saint Martins college near Covent Garden. The focus is on rugged shearling outerwear and footwear brimming with Coach elements, such as the woven Whipstitch and turnlock details and the brand’s signature shade of tanned brown leather.
This story first appeared in the January 8, 2015 issue of WWD. Subscribe Today.
Vevers said the collection was inspired partly by his love of American cinema and watching films such as “My Own Private Idaho” when he was a kid. “I grew up seeing American fashion through film, so the actors’ wardrobes became a very important reference,” said the British designer during a walk-through in London on Wednesday. The designer was also very inspired by his new home — and how the natives deal with the winter weather. “New Yorkers are quite practical, and they don’t sacrifice function. They put things together with attitude, and their look is aspirational around the world.” Above all, though, his lodestar was authenticity. “There are no tricks — the collection is straightforward with honest construction. It’s not about being perfect.”
The result is an ultra-masculine lineup of rugged coats — as in an oversized and “fully loaded” parka with detachable lining and collar and lots of zipper pockets, and a pile of shearling coats and jackets. One black and olive oversized coat has a leopard button detail while a cotton-covered down jacket has a shearling-edged hood. There are donkey jackets, some with toggle fastenings and corduroy or leather patch pockets; shearling varsity jackets in black and white, and denim-style jackets done in suede and leather.
Accessories are similarly functional, fun and on-brand and include leather high-tops and low-tops with shearling tongues and turnlocks, and tassel loafers with chunky rubber soles. Some bags and totes come with the brand’s leather Whipstitch detail and contrasting patches, while others are covered with the Wild Beast print designed by the Los Angeles artist Gary Baseman for the brand. It’s a magnified leopard print resembling arty camouflage.