It’s become almost a matter of course for young designers to make their names by going kitsch crazy, or by churning out depressing, dour design as a metaphor for society on the skids. Victor Alfaro may be only 29, but he’s light years removed from either of those camps.
Victor’s clothes are all about hip elegance. They’re chic, graceful, and executed with a level of refinement that doesn’t walk down the runway too often in New York. Quite simply, the collection Alfaro showed on Tuesday was a gem. His impeccable color sense came through in a palette that was upbeat but not forced, playing the gentlest pastels against gold and neutrals. And, as usual, his fabrics were exquisite — delicate crepes, gauzes and “angel hair” knits mixed with subtle sophistication.
Alfaro made layering look completely new in pastel gauze dresses over satin, or in tweedy crepe over sparkling gold knits. His lace slips and camis over skinny cuffed crepe pants were hot but not tarty, while the black thermocrepe gown — wrapped and tied at the waist with a skinny velvet string — would give any siren a case of the fashion vapors. So would the Harry Winston diamonds that accessorized them.
When he went short, as he often did, it was with discreet points of interest that avoided convention: a flippy skirt slit up the center of each thigh; a curvy, kick-pleat dress in velvet-trimmed black wool.
While he loves evening wear, Victor also wants his clothes to see the light of day. To this end, he proved that he knows a thing or two about tailoring with waffle-texture short suits and peacoats as well as some fabulous birdseye tweed cargo jackets.
Alfaro was even terrific in the things he left out. It was refreshing to see a collection with no mohair, no rubber, and, for that matter, only traces of fake fur.