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As his label enters its seventh year, Berlin-based Vladimir Karaleev has a firmly established design vocabulary that’s nonetheless based on an ever-mutable pastiche of cuts, unfinished edges and unusual fabric mixes.

While the designer’s first foray into prints was the news last season, fall saw Karaleev extend his avant-garde reach to men. Those simpler looks included cuddly knits and comfy baggy pants and bombers, the latter in either a sheer fabric over white knit or a vivid plastic-mohair combo. For the more daring there were double-legged shorts over tights and a tunic-mantle hybrid.

For women, fabrics spanned flat and textured wools, crisp sheers, jersey, Mylarlike taping, nylon and flowing silk. One dress combined plush royal blue wool twill with Yves Klein blue silk. The armholes were unfinished and both fabrics pulled, folded and tucked, with the wool falling in peaked pendants and half-belted around the side. No matter how complicated the look, the women’s lineup had an infectious ease and a new alternative elegance.


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