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Vladimir Karaleev’s deliberately haphazard approach took on more polish for his resort capsule for women and men, despite fabrics that were often coarse or downright industrial.

This story first appeared in the July 11, 2013 issue of WWD. Subscribe Today.

A white silk top with a bra-like chiffon drape, worn with hip-skimming pull-on pants in crepe, was glamorous in a Hedy Lamarr way. Karaleev’s main reference was the Seventies, with a healthy helping of denim, which he pieced and/or combined with assorted blues and other tones. Also new was a tactile jacquard, another fabric he said he never thought he’d use. “All that texture looks couture in a tacky way, but in monochrome, I like it,” Karaleev said.

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