NEW YORK — A love of nature dominates spring-summer 2005 trends for Moda In, according to a recent presentation by Angelo Uslenghi, the Italian fabric trade show’s international trend forecaster.
This story first appeared in the July 6, 2004 issue of WWD. Subscribe Today.
“When nature is well preserved, it can provide a sense of energy and peace, and convey happiness and vivacity, but it can also seduce and bewitch,” he said. “So the feeling is inspired by nature, but it has a twist. There’s a sophisticated feel, a feel of modernity and intrigue.”
Uslenghi said he feels that escalating consumer interest in pure and natural products will no doubt have an impact on fashion. He said, “What will be important are things that maintain biological integrity, such as finishes that use natural products like sea salt.”
Uslenghi’s three color trends for the season are Pure, Juicy and Shaded. Pure’s tones are soft and muted with shades of grays and grayed lavenders, as well as mushroom tones. Juicy is brighter, with a group of reds, pinks and plums, toned down with earthier colors, as well as a group of blues and greens that includes yellow as an accent. For Shaded, the feel is darker and more saturated. Here, deep blues, greens and browns are accompanied by grays, lighter greens and wheat tones.
Within each color group, Uslenghi presented four fabric groups that work back to the palette. For Pure, the groups are Crystalline Source, Stern Wind, Living Desert and Green Lung. Juicy’s groups are Fruit Cocktail, Creative Flash, Village Fete and Legs & Legs. Finally, Shaded’s groups are Seducing Instinct, Harsh Nature, Fatigue Duty and Folk Drama.
Crystalline Source encompasses a feng shui spirit with its fluid and flimsy appearance. Here, liquid-like yarns have iridescent features. Fabrics mix transparency with opacity and feature watery coatings such as waxings and translucent cellophane looks.
For Stern Wind, the feel is silky and smooth, yet compact. Fabrics include voile, poplin and rip-stop. There’s also a parachute effect with slightly gathered looks, as well as stitching and overstitching. Novelties include macroseersucker.
For Living Desert, crispy yarns are key, as are slubbed-linen looks. Effects such as tucks and irregular hem stitching are also key, and fabrics such as stripe dobbies and monochromatic damasks are also part of the mix.
Green Lung presents a sportier view. Coarse, spongy and tubular yarns with a waxy effect are featured while structures are mossy, uneven and embossed. Mesh and tulle are key and feature performance-oriented finishes.
Within Juicy, Fruit Cocktail includes fabrics with porous surfaces and soft, velvety hands. Yarns are fine and mercerized with peach-skin touches, while fabrics include effects such as dip dyes, shaded prints, graded stripes and madras plaids.
Creative Flash plays with the idea of free-form painting. Basic fabrics such as canvas, drill and hopsack are blotted and stained to give them dimensions with crusty textures. Screen prints are also featured and are abstract in nature.
For Village Fete, a festive theme is seen in yarn-dyed cottons, linens and silks. An East-meets-West sensibility prevails in the motifs, as do layering effects with slightly contrasted stripes that feature floral overprints and microembroidery. Sizing and starch also give a look of rigidity, which contributes to the garment’s costumey feel.
Legs & Legs combines athletics with “A Chorus Line.” Lightweight, practical fabrics such as duchess satin, crêpe, piqué, mesh and tulle are used, many of them with stretch. Appliqués in the form of blocks, bands and stripes prevail, as do collages with a patchwork theme.
Shaded’s first fabric theme, Seducing Instinct, is centered on a hidden, dramatic sensuality. Chintzed cottons, glazed linens and pearly jersey are all included. Also important are metal and raffia-yarn effects and delicate cloths such as chantilly and macramé, as well as embroidered tulle.
For Harsh Nature, caves and rocks, with their grainy, uneven grounds, are the inspiration. Hemp and jute are used in basketweave constructions, among others — all with a dry hand. Embossings mimic fossils, while coatings resemble slate, lava and granite.
Fatigue Duty has a men’s wear quality with a worn-out and bleached appearance. Slubby and knobby yarns contribute to the thick and thin melange effect seen in this group, which also includes marled effects and carded looks in cotton and cotton blends. Knits in this grouping feature monochromatic stripes with a tea-stained effect. Also important are yellowed canvases and stonewashed drills.
Folk Drama is a tribute to Southern culture in and outside the U.S. Fabrics have a glossy, iridescent appearance that features a crispy handle. Examples include faille, matelassé and brocades. Moiré effects are also seen with geometrical microinserts in shocking colors. Other textures include faux reptile and fish-skin looks in jacquard and dobby constructions.