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WWD Paris Preview issue 07/26/2011

Who: Coralie de Seynes Paris

This story first appeared in the July 26, 2011 issue of WWD. Subscribe Today.

Where: The Box

What: Jewelry

Tidbit: Coralie De Seynes figures among a group of favorite Prêt à Porter exhibitors selected by Paris retailer Maria Luisa Poumaillou this season.

Spring highlights: Leaf and feather motif aged brass headpieces inspired by Empress Josephine; brass necklaces with enamel pendants and rings made from woven leather.

Retail range: 40 to 120 euros ($57 to $170 at current exchange.)

Who: L’Aiglon

Where: Maro&Go, a new leather goods section on Prêt à Porter’s accessories floor.

What: High-end leather goods, ties, men’s jewelry.

Background: Founded in 1889 by belt maker François Bayon, L’Aiglon in 1990 was acquired by current president Dominique Vigin through his company Vigin Accessoires de Mode. Vigin went on to buy other accessories firms, including tie maker Prady, and Collaert. In the late Nineties, he formed an accessories group, Collaert L’Aiglon, specializing in belts, ties and leather goods. The company today produces and distributes licensed accessories for a number of brands including Lacoste, Lanvin and Azzaro.

Tidbit: Customizable belts handmade in France based on an archived L’Aiglon design remain among the brand’s top-selling items. A reedition of men’s braces designed by the French artist Bernard Buffet for L’Aiglon in the Fifties will form part of the spring collection.

Spring highlights: L’Aiglon has updated its leather goods, targeting a younger customer. Launches will include three lines of business bags for women and a line of ultrafine wallets for men.

Retail range: From 60 euros ($85)for small leather goods to 350 euros ($500), for a travel bag or crocodile skin belt.

Who: IRM Design

Designed by: French duo Marion Lalanne and Pierre Alexis Hermet

Where: Who’s Next.

Spring highlights: A capsule collection of seven looks painted by contemporary French artist Françoise Nielly, who is known for her use of fluorescent and pastel colors. The duo will also present necklaces and handbags, including an iPad case in black leather with an integrated glove and new versions of the brand’s signature climbing rope necklaces in pale and neon shades.

Looking ahead: Developing the accessories line and perhaps doing a line of shoes.

Retail range: Bags: 280 euros ($396); necklaces: 170 euros ($240); clothing: 500 to 3,000 euros ($718 to $4,300).

Who: Elsien Gringhuis

Where: Gringhuis belongs to Dutch collective Green Orange, whose members will make up 21 out of the 50 brands showing at So Ethic this season.

Tidbit: In January, Gringhuis scooped the first prize in the Green Fashion Competition, initiated by Amsterdam International Fashion Week and the Dutch Ministry of Agriculture, Nature and Food Quality (LNV) to mark the international Year of Biodiversity.

Spring highlights: Gringhuis’s spring collection will include a new permanent line of classic basics, dubbed Basic Ones, such as the blouse, the trench coat, the blazer and the pleated trouser. Many of the materials in this series are eco-friendly, including silk and cotton coated in beeswax, which, the designer says, “you can keep re-waxing so it stays nice over the years and doesn’t need washing.” Colors for the new collection are black, white, orange, and yellow.

Retail range: About 95 to 800 euros ($135 to $1,150).

Who: Balangan

Where: The FACE section of Who’s Next, Hall 1.

Founder: French designer Bastien Grandy.

What: A new men’s shoe label inspired by French maritime lifestyle: sea, boat and sea culture. Target customer is 30-plus.

Standouts: The Junking and the Ketch, both inspired by the deck shoe, feature colored heels, while different colored stitched sailboat logos on each shoe symbolize port and starboard.

Tidbit: Three percent of the label’s sales go toward creating a foundation for Balinese fishermen and lifeguards.

Looking ahead: “We expect to be in 50 stores for the first season,” said Grandy. “As our roots are the sea, priority will be given to stores supporting boating activities, such as Coopérative Maritime [a cooperative of sailing equipment stores in France] who aren’t the most trendy but by far the most authentic.”

Retail range: From 100 euros ($143) for a boat shoe, or from 25 euros ($36) for
flip-flops.

Who: Liz Black

Where: Atmosphére’s

Background: Founded in September 2010 by London-based Venezuelan designer Liz Black, a graduate of London’s Central Saint Martins, the brand targets the 25- to 45-year-old cosmopolitan woman.

Spring highlights: Precision-cut angular silhouettes take inspiration from travel and speed, as well as the modern glass and metal architecture of Zaha Hadid. Using a gray and lilac color scheme, elements include an eel skin trench and dresses with detachable leather inserts fixed with suitcase locks.

Retail range: Around 300 pounds ($490) for a shirt to 1,200 pounds ($1,950) for a jacket.

Who: Sigomonta

Where: Eclat de Mode-Bijorhca.

Category: Fine jewelry.

Tidbit: The Budapest-based brand’s signature is its Stocklet bracelet made from a luxury black lingerie strap with gold hardware resembling a garter belt clasp. All pieces are made by hand in the brand’s atelier.
The collection: Small jewelry items to bold precious pieces.

Retail range: 400 euros ($575) for the Stocklet bracelet to 40,000 euros ($57,500) for a necklace with a pendant made of four diamond-encrusted hearts forming a four leaf clover.

Brand: Hartmann Nordenholz

Where: Pop Up at Premiere Classe

Founders: Filip Fiska and Agnes Schorer

Nationality: German-Austrian

Tidbit: Known for its architectural lines and geometric prints, the label is one of 18 accessory and clothing collections participating in the Austrian Fashion Showcase section in Who’s Next and Premiere Classe.

Spring highlights: Leather handbags will be the main focus of the brand’s presentation, based on geometric designs with unusual surface effects, like experimental folds and pleating details. The brand will also present a capsule line of dresses in viscose jersey, Modal, linen and silk blends with floral prints produced digitally and by hand.

Retail range: Bags: 280 to 600 euros ($400 to $860); dresses: 240 to 600 euros ($345 to $860).

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