Christian Dior in Shanghai

John Galliano gave this city a heaping dose of Parisian chic on Saturday night, unveiling Christian Dior’s Nouvelle Vague-inspired cruise collection in a massive tent along the city’s celebrated Bund. The show coincided with the reopening of Dior’s revamped boutique in luxury shopping mall Plaza 66 and the inauguration of a retrospective exhibition. Galliano’s decision to incorporate haute couture creations, such as dramatic organza and tulle gowns, into the show further underscoresjusthow much the house is banking on big spenders in China. For Bottega Veneta’s Cruise 2011 collection, Tomas Maier used the words “architectural, ”graphic” and “clean lines” to describe it, but he might as easily have been speaking of another just-completed project: his new design studio that occupies 4,000 square feet in the Fuller Building on 57th Street. All stark white and sanded glass, the digs are a minimalist’s dream; there’s not even an inspiration board in sight. “The [cruise] collection is finished,” Maier says. “The boards will come for spring.” For cruise, architectural shapes reign, “a little Bauhaus, squared and thencollapsing,” the designer notes. Throughout, he incorporates vibrant tones played against black and white. There are obvious surf references, but the designer says it’s not about hanging 10. Case in point: bold, bicolor pieces, which, though reminiscent of scuba gear, are inspired, Maier explains, by “the Romanian girls — you know, the gymnasts.” And while prints, color and California are not words typically associated with Jil Sander, those concepts unite in Jil Sander Navy, Raf Simons’ new casual collection that the Milan-based company is launching for spring 2011. So bold magenta, orange and kelly green are interspersed among the house’s signature neutrals — khaki, black,white and, of course, navy — along with a few graphic stripes and a beachy print based on the work of 17th-century artist Abraham Mignon. Clean, simple shapes alternate between the structured, like crisp white shirtdresses, and the easy, as in bias cut jersey T-shirts shown with the traditional house oxfords, now in canvas, and gladiator sandals. All of it is done in Japanese or European fabrics, with an emphasis on light weights in cotton voile, micro twill and nylon with techno gabardine.Estée Lauder to Buy Smashbox Cosmetics

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