JUDGEMENT DAY: Pascal Morand, executive president of the Fédération Française de la Couture du Prêt-à-Porter des Couturiers et des Créateurs de Mode; Ruth Chapman, cofounder and co-executive chairman of Matchesfashion.com, and Sophia Neophitou-Apostolou, publisher of 10 Magazine and 10 Men, are among the new jurors for the 2017 ANDAM award.
Returning for jury duty are numerous high-powered executives, including Kering’s François-Henri Pinault, president of Chanel Global Fashion Bruno Pavlovsky, Estée Lauder Cos. Inc.’s John Demsey and Chloé president Geoffroy de La Bourdonnaye, along with a number editors, style icons, government officials and assorted fashion figures.
The 25-member jury is to reveal finalists mid-May, with deliberations and the announcement of winners scheduled for June 30.
Now in its 28th edition, ANDAM recently named Yves Saint Laurent chief executive officer Francesca Bellettini as the designated mentor of this year’s winner of the main Fashion Award. Matchesfashion.com joins the consortium of sponsors of the prize, along with Hermès.
The winner will pocket a cash award of 250,000 euros, or $269,650 at current exchange. In addition to the main award is the First Collections Prize, valued at 100,000 euros, or $107,850, and the Accessories Award, which comes with a grant of 50,000 euros, or $53,925.
As reported, ANDAM is also introducing a new award, the Fashion Innovation Prize, endowed with 30,000 euros, or $32,350. It is aimed at designers, entrepreneurs or start-ups willing to develop innovative and technological solutions in France in the field of fashion design, production and distribution. The prize is expanding its mentorship program in several ways to reflect these changes. Matchesfashion.com’s Chapman, for instance, will help the winner of the First Collections Prize for one year to define and implement their digital and communications strategy.
Galeries Lafayette will buy the First Collections prize winner’s next two collections and help them develop a product and merchandising strategy aimed at department stores, while the Institut Français de la Mode, or IFM, is offering finalists of the First Collections and Accessories prizes access to a 12-month training program covering such topics as identity, supply chain, production, image and communication.
The Accessories Award has been raised from 40,000 euros, or $43,300, to reflect the high cost of developing collections.
Founded in 1989 by Dufour with the support of the French government and with former YSL couture boss Pierre Bergé as president, ANDAM has been a springboard for an array of designers who would go on to achieve international recognition, including Martin Margiela, Viktor & Rolf, Christophe Lemaire and Jeremy Scott. Wanda Nylon’s Johanna Senyk scooped last year’s main prize.
Awards, funds and initiatives aiding young designers have recently become an intense focus for Europe’s big luxury players and trade bodies, with LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton in 2014 introducing an international prize involving business coaching.