BERARDI’S TAKE: Marina Rinaldi unveiled during Milan Fashion Week a capsule designed by Antonio Berardi, who said the experience was “an interesting learning curve,” as it allowed him to rethink his style and aesthetics on different body types.
Berardi’s sensual lacing inspired by corsets were placed on the back of jackets and on the sides of skirts and pencil dresses, and silk chiffon floor-lengths dresses or blouses were printed with a pattern reminiscent of the marbled perfumed papers that used to line drawers.
“My mother used to wear Marina Rinaldi, so I was thrilled to be asked to collaborate,” Berardi said. “I always try to bring out the best in a woman, to have respect, so the looks are never too vulgar or out there. These are 10 pieces meant to last for more than one season and to be mixed and matched, worn from day to evening.”
Berardi has always worked with strong colors and here, too, he used French blue, a pill-box red or flame, as he described it, and black. “Women like bright colors,” he contended.
Jackets with trompe-l’oeil lapels were worn with gloves embellished with a chain-bijou appliqué, a detail that, similarly to the golden multichain necklaces, are important elements of the collection, seen also in the gold sandals with high, slim heels.
The face of the capsule, which will be in stores between the end of July and the first half of September, is the American model Guinevere van Seenus.
Marina Rinaldi, which promotes body positivity and is part of the Max Mara group, has previously collaborated with the likes of Roksanda Ilinčić, Fausto Puglisi, Ashley Graham, Joana Vasconcelos, Stella Jean, Tsumori Chisato, Amy Arbus and Claudia Losi.
Asked about his own namesake collection, Berardi said he is in the midst of restructuring it.