At Christian Dior, models’ hair fell long and wavy or was twisted into updos clasped with big plastic barrettes (made especially for the show). Some had mouths glossed pink, orange or fuchsia, while others had beige mouths, heavily painted eyes or stuck-on eyebrows.

“The inspiration was the Forties,” said hairstylist Orlando Pita, of the look he and makeup artist Pat McGrath concocted for Dior. Pita explained the interpretation wasn’t literal, but rather a nod to yesteryear.

Mouths, for instance, had “Forties shape made super-modern with gloss,” said McGrath.

Meanwhile, McGrath and hairstylist Guido Palau drew inspiration from Nicolas Ghesquiere’s fall collection for Balenciaga — chockablock with contrasting colors, textures and influences — to create their very own street tribe. For the look, McGrath freshened up models’ faces with a yet-to-be-launched Max Factor foundation, called Miracle Touch, then swept white theatrical color cosmetics over eyes and some foreheads. “It’s almost a symbol around the eyes,” she said. “They wanted something quite daring, quite different.”

Of the coifs, which were finger-dried, veiled with Redken Extreme Anti-Snap, parted in the center and tucked loosely inside clothes, Palau said, “It’s very natural hair — we’re calling it a new grunge.”


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