Rochas Men's Spring 2018

REVOLVING DOOR: After just two seasons, Rochas men’s wear designer Béatrice Ferrant has parted ways with the house.

“We are recruiting a designer who will be based in Milan to work with Onward on men’s wear,” said Philippe Benacin, chairman and chief executive officer of Interparfums SA, owner of Rochas fashion and fragrance, during a meeting with financial analysts in Paris. He said that Interparfums had inked a license with Onward Luxury Group, which already produces Rochas women’s rtw, with Alessandro Dell’Acqua as creative director.

“We have a brief that’s rather precise,” continued Benacin. “The choice has not yet been made, since we’ve already met with two candidates and there are three others to see.”

He noted an announcement on the final pick should come in the first quarter of 2018, in time for a relaunch of the brand in January 2019.

Ferrant, who joined Rochas as artistic director in September 2016, was tasked with resurrecting the label’s men’s wear line after a 22-year hiatus. Her vision for the modern Rochas man centered on a “sexy-formal” contemporary direction incorporating rock, sports and what she described as “couture” references.

The full-throttle spring 2018 collection, inspired by the 24 Hours of Le Mans endurance car race, featured color-blocked bikers mixing shine and matte sections and suit jackets in a scratchy screen print meant to evoke speed.

Under Ferrant’s watch, the house in June opened its first pop-up store dedicated to its fledgling men’s wear line.

In the first nine months of this year, royalties from Rochas fashion reached 2 million euros, up 31 percent year-over-year.

Revenues from Rochas perfumes, meanwhile, hit 322 million euros, a 19 percent rise versus the same period in 2016. A first men’s scent for the house since Interparfums finalized the acquisition of Rochas’ fragrance and fashion business from Procter & Gamble in May 2015 is slated to be introduced in 2019.

Since being taken over by Interparfums, various Rochas fashion-related licenses have been discontinued.

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