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SEVEN SEAS: The tony little Mathi’s bar in Paris’ gallery quarter served as the global launch pad for Bianca Brandolini’s charming capsule collection for Amsterdam Sauer.


Channeling an underwater theme, Brandolini worked organic pearls into black-gold oyster rings featuring teeny diamonds. Squared labradorite rings gave off a moody vibe as they changed color according to their surroundings, while free-shaped opals, the 32-piece-collection’s main ingredient, were most outstanding on a vintage-looking set of bracelets, rings and earrings that the guest-designer ornamented with little amethysts.


“I’m passionate about jewelry,” said Brandolini, pointing to her own lucky charm, a clover with a sapphire dangling from her wrist. “It was a Christmas gift from my grandmother, who loves jewelry, in 1995 – and I never, never take it off. My babysitter had to make it longer every time my wrist grew, so that I could keep it.”


Guests, which included Giambattista Valli, Ora-Ito and Sofia Sanchez Barrenechea, tried to put a name on the stones’ magical hues, but it was Valentino Garavani who had the answer: “pale ivory beige,” he professionally observed, sporting an impressive skin color of his own.


“I was vacationing on my boat in Greece, Venice and Croatia; I came back three days ago, [hence] the tan,” he pointed out.


The capsule’s pieces are slated to retail between 2,000 euros and 30,000 euros, or $2,545 and $38,181 at current exchange. “But,” as Daniel Sauer, whose father founded the Brazilian jewelry company in 1941, explained: “The real value of jewelry is when people wear it.”

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