KEEP DREAMING: Just when you were settling into the ides of summer, the Council of Fashion Designers of America has a reality check for the industry — the breakdown for the official New York Fashion Week.
Take heart in the consolation that September will bring a shorter, more compact schedule. Domestic and global retailers, media and other stakeholders piped up to make it clear that previous seasons were too long and too crowded. The crowds spoke and the CFDA listened. So NYFW spring-summer 2020 will run from Sept. 6 to Sept. 11, starting with Telfar on the opening Friday night. Last season’s Cinderella story Tomo Koizumi, a Tokyo-based, costume-designer-turned-overnight-design star will be back for a second act. Last season the designer was flown into New York from Asia for a fashion show at Marc Jacobs’ Madison Avenue store after being discovered on Instagram by stylist Katie Grand. He said of the experience at that time, “This feels more like a dream. It has happened really quickly.” (And that was before his designs wound up on view in the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute.)
Koizumi’s 7 p.m. show on Sept. 6 will be followed by a show by Jeremy Scott, whose media reach is as colorful as his collections. Other crowd-attracting designers like Brandon Maxwell, Vera Wang, Tom Ford, Ralph Lauren, Gabriela Hearst, Tommy Hilfiger, Michael Kors, Proenza Schouler, The Row’s Ashley and Mary-Kate Olsen and Jason Wu are locked in for runway appearances. Hilfiger will be upping his star wattage with his collaborator, “Euphoria” star and musician Zendaya, at a show at the Apollo Theater on Sept. 8 at 8:30 p.m. Pyer Moss’ Kerby Jean-Raymond — a big believer in seasonless dressing and overhauling the fashion system — is also back on the calendar with an 8 p.m. slot for Sept. 7.
Christian Siriano, LaQuan Smith, Kate Spade New York and Batsheva are also locked in for shows. Marchesa’s Georgina Chapman will be flying solo with private appointments on Sept. 11. This will be the first season since her partner Keren Craig exited the company.
As for dealing with the loss of long summer weeks (not just Labor Day) and all the legwork, deal-making and inevitable headaches that are part of fashion week preparations, designers might take a page from one of their fellow participants, Lou Dallas designer Raffaella Hanley. The Rhode Island School of Design alum reportedly envisions each collection as a dream.
Steven Kolb, president and chief executive officer of the CFDA, said, “I am excited for the strong September lineup which will continue to showcase and celebrate the creativity and diversity of American fashion.”
Jacobs will once again do the honors of closing out the spring season, by staging his show at 6 p.m. on Sept. 11.
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