ONE DOWN: Buyers and fashion editors set to head into the next round of shows may be relieved to hear that the Chambre Syndicale, French fashion’s governing body, has managed to shave one day off Paris Fashion Week by shuffling the lineup sans making any radical shakeups to the traditional calendar format.
Scheduled to run Feb. 28 to March 7, the week will now run across eight days and end on a Tuesday, versus the usual nine-day run that ends on a Wednesday. The major players that traditionally show on the last Wednesday of Paris Fashion Week — namely Louis Vuitton, Moncler Gamme Rouge and Miu Miu — have been integrated into Tuesday’s lineup, which means all three brands will now show on the same day as Chanel, with Vuitton down as the last major show of the day.
“It’s really about optimization. There were holes in the calendar that are no more, which makes it one day shorter,” said Pascal Morand, the Chambre Syndicale’s executive president. He could not confirm the Paris calendar will continue to operate on an eight-day schedule going forward. “We pay attention to the number of days, and do what we can to optimize as a function of what’s possible.”
Fellow LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton-owned brand Kenzo, which held Vuitton’s new Tuesday slot last season, will now fill the final show slot on March 1, though the nature of the presentation remains a mystery. The house in December, when it revealed plans to present coed shows in January and June going forward, said that it would also retain its presence during the March and September Paris collections, “and present unexpected special projects, collections and events titled Kenzo ‘Memento.’”
Among other changes to the schedule, Sonia Rykiel, which last season showed on the Monday, will now fill the main Saturday night slot.
Brands missing from the Paris calendar this season, meanwhile, include Emanuel Ungaro, Olympia Le-Tan and Vionnet. Carven, which recently named former Serge Ruffieux its new creative director, said it will present its first runway show under the designer during Paris Fashion Week in October for spring 2018. Ungaro and Le-Tan have both opted for a presentation format, while Vionnet’s plans could not be learned at press time.