PAS DE TROIS: The “dream team” is back — that is, designer Christian Lacroix, director Vincent Boussard and stage designer Vincent Lemaire, who have already worked together on George Frideric Handel’s “Agrippina” and Leonard Bernstein’s “Candide” at the Berlin State Opera.
The trio, which has collaborated on numerous other productions throughout Europe, as well, now has joined forces in Berlin again for the Staatsoper’s new staging of Kurt Weill and Bertolt Brecht’s “Rise and Fall of the City of Mahagonny.” The opera premieres Friday.
Lacroix’s costume designing activities have been keeping him extremely busy of late, and he seems to have found the ideal playground in Mahogonny’s decadently utopian setting. In this fantasy world, where anarchic hedonism rules, Lacroix has made ample use of opulent drapery, floral embroidery, glitter and tulle in bright shades of pink and blue.
The costumes of the female protagonists Leocadia Begbick and Jenny Hill, for example, are reminiscent of Lacroix’s couture collections with their broad shoulders, crinoline and rich appliqués, reflecting Mahagonny’s “chaos, but also lust and irony,” the designer said.
For Lacroix, “couture and theater are very similar,” he continued. “Couture clients are extraordinary personalities — they are heroines, have an extravagant lifestyle and wish for clothes that express their soul, their silhouette, their individuality…. Even as a child, the theater, the opera was my dream. Maybe that’s why my fashion was always so theatric and opera-esque.”