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EYE CLOUD: Fashion-related action during Gallery Weekend Berlin picked up Friday night with the presentation of Skywalk, the first Closed capsule collection by Kostas Murkudis, which was accompanied by a new video work by Carsten Nicolai.


Nicolai’s video documents his fascination with clouds, containing footage he filmed during the past 12 years. “We started collaborating since 2003, and I have always followed Carsten’s work. When I started this project I knew he had been collecting these clouds for many years. I then showed him the collection I was working on and our ideas just came together,” Murkudis explained.


Murkudis took inspiration from a vintage aviator suit, using the cuts and details of aviator style to create a shirt, a blouson and pants for men and women.


“The look is the same for each piece, but the fit and shapes are made differently for men and for women,” Murkudis said of the collection, which also includes leather and cashmere pieces.


A standout item is a trench coat retailing for 700 euros, or about $1,100. “This coat is made of twill bonded with mousselin and fused with Scottish 3M tape. The fabric was especially developed for us,” noted Murkudis.


“We have been working on utilitarian garments that are aesthetic and it became natural for Kostas to take over men’s. In July, we will present the brand complete under his direction,” said Til Nadler, managing partner of Closed.


Murkudis was hired by Closed one year ago as creative director in charge of women’s. Now the plan is for him to do both men’s and women’s for next season.


“The next step is to take the collection to Japan,” Murkudis said.