GREAT DANES: Copenhagen Fashion Week, which began Wednesday and runs through Friday, is giving men’s wear some good play.
“Through recent years, we have seen Danish men’s wear designers gain a great deal of attention abroad. And it’s not merely in regards to press that Danish men’s wear makes its mark. Also sales and earnings show that Danish men’s wear is expanding tremendously,” said Eva Kruse, chief executive officer of Copenhagen Fashion Week, which draws around 30,000 industry professionals.
To wit: The organizers gave the opening show slot on Wednesday afternoon to Copenhagen-based men’s wear brand Tonsure, which made its runway debut with its fall collection. (Crown Princess Mary of Denmark, who walked the Designers’ Nest award show catwalk last season, sat front row at the Tonsure display.)
The label is among the four men’s wear newcomers to the Copenhagen runway, alongside Krüger, Trine Lindegaard and Peter Schamaun.
A total of 26 women’s and men’s labels are to show in the Danish capital this week, including homegrown talents such as Mark Kenly, Domino Tan and Freya Dalsjø, and established labels such as Henrik Vibskov, Baum und Pferdgarten and By Malene Birger.
Danish model Caroline Brasch Nielsen closed the Tonsure show, which consisted of 26 men’s wear looks. The collection, entitled “Old Word in New Ways,” was inspired by wall-to-wall carpets, rag rugs and oriental carpets.
“Men’s wear brands are getting a lot of attention,” Tonsure cofounder Adam El-Zayat said before the show. He created the label in 2013 with Central Saint Martins graduate Malte Flagstad, who previously worked at Maison Margiela. Together they won the Magasin Award in 2015.
“We have to give some credit to some Scandinavian men’s wear brands that are a bit older than us. They’ve been really good not only with their clothes but also at branding themselves…and reaching [out] internationally,” El-Zahat explained, citing Acne Studios, Soulland, Our Legacy and Wood Wood as examples.
Soulland, which showed for the third season during London Collections: Men in January, is to celebrate its 10th anniversary with a bash in Copenhagen on Thursday.
Coinciding with the runway shows are two trade fairs — Copenhagen International Fashion Fair and Revolver.
On the sidelines of Copenhagen Fashion Week, the Danish Fashion Institute is to cohost The Jewellery Room, an initiative now in its sixth edition aimed at positioning Danish jewelry on the international fashion map. To be held at Nikolaj Kunsthal on Friday, it will showcase 24 of the region’s labels, including heavyweights such as Pandora, Georg Jensen and Ole Lynggaard and smaller labels like Orit Elhanati and Maria Black.
Total exports of Danish fashion rose 6 percent in 2015 to 26.3 billion Danish kroner, or $3.86 billion at average exchange for the period.