Sketches of looks from the Equipment Gender Fluid collection

FOR ONE AND ALL: Equipment, founded in France in the Seventies and famous for shirts, is introducing a gender-fluid line. “A brand steeped in androgyny and iconic, tailored silhouettes from conception, Equipment has naturally garnered a genderless cult following since its launch in 1976,” said James Miller, chief executive officer of The Collected Group, which owns Equipment. “A gender-fluid offering is an inherent progression for the brand.”

Miller, for whom the launch is a “passion project,” was keen to emphasize, “We’re not talking about unisex product.”

The label is partnering with New York-based The Phluid Project on outreach, and intends to only launch in a handful of stores worldwide that must be able to offer nonbinary product segmentation. “Any partner we work with has to have a 360-degree view,” said Miller, adding that the first retail partner to sign the new collection is Net-a-porter. “It will be clients that understand [the concept].”

Inspired by the label’s archives and heritage — it offered designs for both men and women until the early Nineties — the new line, launching for spring 2020, will initially offer a range of shirts in various styles in silk, twill and cotton as well as a single-pant silhouette, designed to be worn in a variety of different ways. Available in sizes XXXS to XXXL, it will offer plain designs as well as star, camouflage and animal prints. Retail prices will range from $275 to $425.