SHINE ON: Leading Italian fashion figures flocked to Milan’s Palazzo Morando on Wednesday night for the 7th edition of The Next Talents, the young designer showcase created by Vogue Italia and online retailer Yoox.com.
It was the first edition since the death of Vogue Italia editor in chief Franca Sozzani in December, and her spirit loomed large over the event. “It’s an edition that I think is in her honor,” said Federico Marchetti, founder of Yoox and chief executive officer of Yoox Net-a-porter Group.
“Obviously she had the dream, together with me, and I think that the dream should continue. Young designers need help and in honor of Franca, I’ve decided with Yoox to continue this project,” he added.
Marchetti and Vogue Italia’s new editor in chief, Emanuele Farneti, greeted guests including Alberta Ferretti, Diego Della Valle, Remo Ruffini, Carla Sozzani, Andrea Incontri, Marco Bizzarri, Gaia Trussardi, Arthur Arbesser, Brunello Cucinelli, Carlo Capasa, Francesco Vezzoli, Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi.
The exhibition, open to the public from Feb. 23 to 25, showcases 10 international emerging talents: seven in women’s wear, one in men’s wear, one in children’s wear and one in homewares.
For the first time, each designer was asked to create an exclusive item available for purchase on Yoox, alongside the usual selection of clothes and accessories from the designers’ current collections.
“I think it’s a kind of luxury to wear a young designer, because there is so much passion and so much attention to detail in terms of manufacturing,” noted Marchetti. “The customer knows for sure that nobody in the room will wear the same thing, because they are all unique pieces.”
Farneti said the March edition of Vogue Italia, set to hit newsstands in 10 days, will be dedicated to the growing see-now-buy-now phenomenon. “We think that it’s absolutely the topic at the moment,” he said.
Both men paid tribute to Sara Maino, senior editor of Vogue Italia and head of Vogue Talents, for bringing together another crop of promising talents, which included Italian handbag label Pugnetti Parma, Ukrainian women’s wear designer Marianna Senchina and French men’s shoe brand Solovière Paris.
“I really think that one of the crucial points of Franca’s legacy is that she always kept looking for new fresh talents, and that’s not a given,” said Farneti. “That’s something that the magazine absolutely has to keep doing in the future.”