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CUTTING EDGE: “Kaputt — it means what it means; it’s a broken stone,” said Jean Paul Gaultier of the new crystal he developed in collaboration with Swarovski. “What’s incredible is that it’s reversible, one color on one side, another color on the other side, and there are fractures. It’s very Cubist and Art Deco-ish in a way,” Gaultier noted of the double-faced stone, which premiered in his haute couture collection on Wednesday.

Now that he no longer produces ready-to-wear, pre-fall and secondary lines, the designer plans to do more costume jewelry. “I want to find new ideas, new ways of doing things, look at the details on the cuts,” he explained, before enthusing about Rose McGowan’s hairdo. The “Charmed” star sported a crystal peruke (“a mix of ‘Metropolis,’ Cleopatra, Art Deco and disco ball,” as Gaultier summed up) from Liberace’s hat-maker. “It’s so absurd – I love it,” she laughed.

This story first appeared in the February 2, 2015 issue of WWD. Subscribe Today.

Fiona Swarovski came with her mother Marina (a granddaughter of the company’s founder) to see the innovation up close. The affable heiress faces a busy year ahead. “We are opening five new Cadenzza stores,” which will add to the existing 27, she said.

Swarovksi, who is the design director of the family company’s multi-brand jewelry chain, said the idea behind Cadenzza is to present an edited selection of 30 designers, established brands as well as up-and-coming labels. “It’s like a concept store — but for jewelry only,” she added.